Table of contents:
Video: Autumn Work In The Garden. Soil Preparation. Cleaning Of The Territory. Fertilizing The Soil. A Photo
The autumn preparation of the soil for the future harvest is of great importance, since it is extremely important to observe the crop rotation, as well as the requirements of various crops for acidity and fertilization.
When preparing the beds in the fall, it should be remembered that it is impossible to turn over the layer of earth, break up the clods formed during digging. This will not only contribute to freezing of seeds of weeds and pests hibernating in the soil, but also soil respiration.
Produce where required, the earth during the autumn digging. In the spring it is more difficult to do this, since not all plants tolerate lime well, and the acidic soil inhibits their growth.
The acidity of the soil can be determined by the weeds prevailing in the garden. Horsetail, sorrel, plantain, mint, ivan-da-marya, heather usually grow on acidic soils, on slightly acidic and neutral soils - field bindweed, odorless chamomile, garden bush, coltsfoot, creeping wheatgrass, clover.
When digging the soil, the necessary nutrients are introduced for those crops that need to be fertilized in the fall.
Manure is applied in autumn or early spring. It all depends on what kind of crop you are going to grow.
For early vegetables (cabbage, potatoes), it is better to apply manure in autumn, for late ones - during early spring digging
If in the spring you have to use fresh decomposed manure, then pumpkins and cucumbers can be grown on these beds. But onions, carrots, green crops are planted only in the second year after the introduction of manure.
From autumn, during the digging of the soil, it is better to apply phosphorus fertilizers, since it takes a long time for them to reach the roots. Beets especially need it.
By mid-October, the planting of winter garlic is finished. At the end of the month, a winter sowing of carrots, parsley, black onions, sorrel and other cold-resistant crops is carried out. In November, all work in the garden is practically finished.
© Ted Percival
After harvesting vegetables and potatoes, it is imperative to put things in order on the site, rake up fallen leaves and plant debris, otherwise they will become a source of spread of diseases and pests. Healthy leaves are used for winter shelter of perennial plants and flowers. Fallen leaves and grass can be a valuable fertilizer. To do this, they are piled up in large heaps. In autumn and spring, heaps are shoveled. Once they are overcooked, they can be used for vegetable crops.
I use foliage and grass waste to arrange warm beds. First, I remove the arable layer and lay the foliage. Then I put the removed earth back. During the winter, the leaves have time to overheat and become a good fertilizer. For this, you can use foliage collected in the forest, but in no case from roadside strips, since it contains carcinogenic substances.
Greenhouse preparation rules
In November, it is important to prepare your greenhouses for the new season. For this purpose, plant residues after harvesting vegetables must be taken out and burned. Thoroughly inspect the room, seal up all cracks and gaps. Within 2-3 days, carry out aeration of the greenhouses (sulfur bombs are burned at the rate of 50 g per 1 sq. M of the greenhouse), the roof inside the greenhouse, racks, and the inventory should be treated with a formalin solution with chlorophos (500 g of formalin and 50 g of chlorophos per 10 l of water) … For 1 sq. m of area consume 400 g of such a mixture. Instead of formalin, you can use 400 g of bleach paste per 10 liters of water. After disinfection, rinse the roof inside the greenhouse, racks and equipment with hot water.
Remember: frequent and abundant watering in greenhouses and greenhouses promotes the leaching of nutrients, and repeated feeding - the accumulation of ballast formations in the soil
To provide favorable conditions for plant growth, it is necessary to prepare fresh soil, consisting of lowland peat (75%), soddy medium loamy soil (25%) or 60% lowland peat, 20% soddy land, 20% manure or 70% lowland peat, 20 % manure humus, 10% sand. As a loosening material, composts from waste shavings, sawdust, bark and small chips can be added to soils up to 30%. When composting them, add 44 g of urea and 15 g of superphosphate to a bucket of fresh waste, mix everything thoroughly and stack it for 2-3 months.
In winter, if possible, remember to collect wood ash, chicken droppings, which should be stored in boxes or barrels in a dry place. Furnace ash neutralizes acidic soil and significantly revives the activity of beneficial microorganisms, in particular bacteria that enrich the soil with nitrogen. Ash is brought into the furrows and holes in the spring at the rate of 100-200 g per 1 sq. m.