Choosing Neighbors In The Vegetable Garden. Landing Plan. Photo

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Choosing Neighbors In The Vegetable Garden. Landing Plan. Photo
Choosing Neighbors In The Vegetable Garden. Landing Plan. Photo
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Fresh vegetables, just picked from the garden, are rich in vitamins important for life and are especially fragrant. Every gardener takes pride in the crop he has grown. However, in order to obtain a healthy and rich harvest, it is important to plan the sequence and combination of different vegetables in time. Let's try to figure it out.

Choosing neighbors in the vegetable garden
Choosing neighbors in the vegetable garden

Content:

  • Landing plan
  • Nutrient requirements of vegetables
  • What and what to combine
  • Plants that should not be planted nearby
  • Aromatic herbs

Landing plan

It is best to use the winter months for planting planning as you need to think about the following: Distribution of beds. It is optimal to divide the area into 2 or 3 parts with different nutrient content. So, on the one hand, you can swap places of strong and weak consumers, on the other hand, different types of vegetables.

Crop succession throughout the year: This means planning short early crops, then the main crop, so that the bed is used optimally throughout the year. Mixed crops: It's also worth considering which vegetables you can combine and which you can't.

Nutrient requirements of vegetables

The nutrient requirements of certain types of vegetables differ significantly.

In terms of nitrogen demand, vegetables can be divided into strong, medium and weak consumers. These needs must be considered when preparing the beds and applying fertilizers.

  • Strong consumers (high nitrogen demand): green, white and red cabbage, Chinese cabbage, kale, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, broccoli, celery, onions, Swiss chard, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, zucchini, pumpkin.
  • Average consumers (average nitrogen demand): carrots, red beets, radishes, scorzoners, kohlrabi, onions, potatoes, fennel, eggplant, spinach, field salad, head lettuce, chicory.
  • Weak consumers (low nitrogen demand): peas, beans, radishes, nasturtium (bedbug), herbs and spices.
Vegetable beds
Vegetable beds

What and what to combine

Planting several types of vegetables in your garden will greatly increase your harvest. The right combination of several types of vegetables promotes full growth, reduces the likelihood of disease, creates a favorable habitat for beneficial insects and repels various pests.

But at the same time, the simultaneous planting of several types of vegetables together has its drawbacks, because not all plants can get along with each other. A few simple tips will introduce you to the most common possible vegetable growing combinations:

  • Asparagus gets along well with many vegetables, but tomatoes, parsley and basil are more suitable.
  • Bush beans get along well with potatoes, cucumbers, corn, strawberries and celery, but they can't stand onions. On the contrary, common beans are more capricious - they grow successfully, being next to corn and radishes, and do not get along with beets and onions at all.
  • Representatives of the cabbage family (broccoli, Brussels sprouts, white cabbage, cauliflower, garden cabbage, etc.) get along well with many other vegetables. Beets, celery, cucumbers, lettuce, onions, potatoes, and spinach can be their neighbors. But there are also unwanted plants like beans, strawberries, tomatoes, etc.
  • Carrots can be grown next to many vegetables: beans, lettuce, rosemary, onions, sage, and tomatoes. However, you should not plant carrots next to dill.
  • Celery is also unpretentious in relation to other vegetables planted nearby. It can be planted alongside onions, cabbages, tomatoes and bush beans. As with asparagus, there are no specific vegetables for celery that can negatively affect its growth.
  • Corn should be planted away from tomatoes, but next to potatoes, beans, peas, pumpkins, cucumbers, etc.
  • Cucumbers do not like growing near aromatic herbs and potatoes, but they are highly favored by planting next to beans, corn, and peas.
  • Lettuce is an extremely unpretentious plant that can grow alongside any vegetable. But it is best to plant it next to carrots, strawberries and cucumbers.
  • Onions are best planted near beets, carrots, lettuce and representatives of the cabbage family. However, it is best not to plant it next to beans and peas if you want to reap a good harvest later.
  • Peas are best planted next to carrots, turnips, cucumbers, corn and beans, but never next to onions or potatoes.
  • When it comes to potatoes, it is best to plant them in the vicinity of beans, corn and cabbage family for good results. Potatoes should not be planted next to pumpkins, tomatoes, and cucumbers.
  • Finally, tomatoes are one of the most common vegetables grown during the summer season. For best results, tomatoes should be planted next to onions, asparagus, carrots, parsley or cucumbers, but away from potatoes and various members of the cabbage family.

The above is by no means a complete list. Undoubtedly, many other vegetables can be grown in the garden, and this article could be double or even triple if everything was described in detail. But the vegetables covered in this article are the most common. This will help you plan and organize your garden properly for the next year.

Try planting vegetables in different combinations. You will find that they will be much more useful in doing so, which in turn will provide you and your family members with delicious and healthy food.

Vegetables
Vegetables

Plants that should not be planted nearby

Among garden plants, relationships of mutual assistance are much more common than relationships of enmity. Poor plant compatibility is most often due to their root or leaf secretions, which can inhibit the growth of neighboring crops. The secretions of some plants have a specific inhibitory effect only on one or two other species. For example, sage does not get along with onions, turnip suffers from the neighborhood of a walker and a highlander bird (knotweed), marigolds have a bad effect on beans, bitter wormwood - on peas and beans, tansy - on leafy cabbage, quinoa - on potatoes.

There are plant species that secrete substances that are poorly tolerated by most other species. An example is the black nut, which secretes the substance juglone, which inhibits the growth of most vegetables, azaleas, rhododendrons, blackberries, peonies, and apple trees.

The close proximity of wormwood is also undesirable for most vegetables.

Among vegetable plants there is also a quarrelsome, or, as they say, "asocial" species, which has a bad effect on many cultivated plants. This is fennel. It damages tomatoes, bush beans, caraway seeds, peas, beans and spinach.

Some field crop weeds not only compete with them for water and food, but also suppress them with their secretions. Wheat is oppressed by a large number of poppy and chamomile plants, rapeseed - walker and field mustard. Rye, on the contrary, itself inhibits the growth of weeds, and if it is sown for two years in a row in one place, then wheatgrass will disappear in this field. Other crops are also capable of inhibiting weed growth. They are trying to isolate the substances responsible for this action in order to create environmentally friendly herbicides on their basis.

A striking example of negative interaction is the relationship between clover and all plants in the buttercup family. In their roots, a substance called ranunculin is formed, which even in extremely low concentrations inhibits the growth of nodule bacteria and therefore makes the soil unsuitable for clover. If a buttercup appeared on a field of perennial grasses, the clover will soon disappear completely.

The American biologist R.B. Gregg, in his book on herbs, gives such a devastating characterization of the buttercup family. “Delphinium, peony, aconite and some other garden flowers belong to the buttercup family, very strong and viable, but living only for themselves. They require a large amount of organic fertilizers, and leave behind lifeless humus. The surrounding plants will not grow well without a lot of compost.”

In the kingdom of trees, according to the same author, spruce is distinguished by its aggressive character. It is hostile to all other trees, the adverse effect of spruce manifests itself in the soil for 15 years after its cutting.

There are many examples of such relationships, when in large quantities plants have a depressing effect on any culture, and in small quantities they are favorable for its growth. Such plants are recommended to be planted along the edges of vegetable beds, but only in small quantities. This applies to white lamb (deaf nettle), sainfoin, valerian, yarrow. Chamomile in large quantities is harmful to wheat, and in a ratio of 1: 100 contributes to better grain fulfillment.

Aromatic herbs

Aromatic herbs, whose leaves emit a large amount of volatile substances, are good companions for many garden plants. Their volatile secretions have a beneficial effect on vegetables growing nearby: they make them healthier, and in some cases significantly affect the taste. For example, sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes, and dill improves the taste of cabbage.

The well-known dandelion releases a large amount of ethylene gas, which accelerates the ripening of fruits. Therefore, its neighborhood is favorable for apple trees and many vegetable crops. Most aromatic herbs - lavender, borage, sage, hyssop, parsley, dill, savory, marjoram, chamomile, crevel - work well for almost all vegetables. Planted along the edges of the beds or plots, white lamb (dull nettle), valerian, yarrow make vegetable plants healthier and more resistant to diseases.

Dynamic plants are those that have a good effect on everyone and everything, maintaining the general tone: nettle, chamomile, valerian, dandelion, yarrow.

  • "Tyrants", oppressing all "neighbors" without exception: fennel and wormwood. Around fennel, indeed, everything is tormented. Him - to the fence.
  • "Helpers" for everyone - lettuce and spinach. They secrete substances that enhance the activity of roots and plants and shade the soil. So, everyone is fed!
  • All umbellates "quarrel" with each other, except for carrots: parsley, celery, parsnips, lovage, dill, cilantro. These are best planted apart.

It is useful to plant marigolds around the garden beds: they will be an excellent protection against pests.

To get rid of the wireworm (the larva of the click beetle), plant beans next to the carrots. No matter what part of your plot you planted your favorite root crops, carrots are never spoiled by this pest.

Looking forward to your recommendations!

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