Video: Musk Roses. Care, Cultivation, Reproduction. Photo
Among the wide variety of park roses, there are musk roses and their hybrids, which are quite rare, but firmly becoming fashionable. What attracts amateur flower growers to these roses? First of all - the abundance of flowers, the long duration of their flowering and the high decorative effect of the bush itself. The bush 1.5 m high has many fragrant racemose inflorescences that do not fade until the very frost. The color of the flowers is from light pink to dark red.
Musk rose has been known for a long time, it grows in the wild from the Himalayas to the Caucasus. India and South China are considered its homeland, where this evergreen ornamental plant with a very pleasant aroma blooms continuously all year round. It also received its recognition and wide distribution in Southern Europe and North Africa.
The musk rose played an important role in the creation of noisette roses. In 1802, in the USA, breeder Louis Noisette crossed a Chinese rose with a musk rose, received interspecific hybrids, calling them noisette roses. These are vigorous bushes with semi-leafy shoots. The climbing variety Trier R. was also obtained, from which the musk rose hybrids originated. At the beginning of the XX century. J. Pamberton bred several hybrids that smelled like musk roses. These hybrids also belonged to the musk rose group, although there was no close relationship between them.
The previously developed varieties of Lambert roses are classified as musky. These roses bloom in June-July in large racemose inflorescences, they are very hardy and resistant to diseases caused by fungi. Most of them are scented. As soon as the flowers lose their decorative effect, they must be cut to a well-developed bud to ensure abundant re-flowering.
I have been growing musk roses for years. I want to share my experience. I prefer the autumn planting of grafted roses (September - mid October). When purchasing self-rooted roses with a closed root system, it is better to plant them in the spring, deepening the roots 5 cm deeper than they grew in the container.
When planting musk roses, I remove broken roots and shorten weak and damaged stems. In the first and second years after flowering, I remove all thin, weak growths.
In the spring, after removing the shelters and weak pruning, I feed the plants with dissolved ammonium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), since nitrogen is intensively absorbed at this time. If the spring is wet, it rains a lot and the nutrients are partially washed out, I feed the roses again after 10-12 days also with ammonium nitrate, or urea, or any complete mineral fertilizer, dissolving 1 tbsp. a spoonful of fertilizer in 10 liters of water. After 10-12 days, I carry out the third feeding, which coincides with the beginning of budding.
At the same time, I bring in calcium nitrate in solution at the rate of 1 tbsp. a spoonful of fertilizer per 10 liters of water. The last dressing allows the flowers to acquire a juicy color. Then, after 10-12 days, I give a dissolved complete mineral fertilizer with trace elements (crystalin, "Kemira") at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of water.
After each feeding, I spill the soil with a solution of albumin (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), or infusion of mullein (1: 10), or infusion of chicken droppings (1: 20), or infusion of fermented herbs.
Flowering occurs on lateral branches of the first and second order, located on biennial and older stems. Since musk roses give powerful root growths, I cut out 1-2 old shoots in the third and subsequent years of planting in order to stimulate the growth of young root shoots and keep the shape of the bush.
If the bush is aging, it can be rejuvenated. To do this, I leave 2-3 strong shoots on it, cut out all the old shoots on a stump, dig the earth deep and bring a bucket of rotted manure under the bush, adding 40 g of superphosphate and a glass of ash. Next, I spill the soil with a solution of sodium humate (1 teaspoon per 40 liters of water).
For the winter, I cover the roses in an air-dry way. Before the shelter, I spud them with sand to a height of 25-30 cm and bend them down to the level of the shelter, remove the foliage and process the bushes with iron vitriol, dissolving 300 g of the drug in 10 liters of water.
In the spring, after removing the shelter, I carry out a cosmetic pruning, that is, I remove all damaged, broken shoots, slightly shorten the tops of all other shoots and spray the bush with a solution of copper sulfate, using 100 g of the drug per 10 liters of water.
During the growing season, I feed musk roses in the same way as all other roses. You can bring half a bucket of rotted manure under the bush, followed by embedding it in the ground. With an interval of 10-12 days, I continue to feed the roses until the end of August with a solution of any complete mineral fertilizer (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).
At the end of August, I add superphosphate, after dissolving it in hot water (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), and potassium sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). These dressings are necessary for roses to ripen the shoots and prepare them for winter.
After applying top dressing, it is advisable to mulch the ground around the bushes with a layer of peat 5-8 cm. This will protect the plants from overheating and drying out and allow the roses to develop much faster. In addition, peat improves soil structure. Humus, manure, etc. can also be used as mulch.
Musk roses are propagated by cuttings, grafting, dividing the bush. During transplanting, pruning, cutting flowers, during a cold snap or during a drought, it is useful to treat the plants with the antidepressant epin (1 ampoule per 5 liters of water).
Among the hybrids of musk roses, there are varieties that deserve special attention, these are:
Variety 'Sanqerhausen'. The buds are long, sharp, carmine red. The flowers are bright red, open, large (diameter 7-10 cm), semi-double, weak-minded, collected in large inflorescences. Bushes are tall (up to 1.5 m), straight, with strong stems. Flowering is very abundant, long lasting, repeated. The leaf is large, leathery.
Variety 'Schwerin'. The buds are long, sharp. The flowers are cherry red, medium (diameter 5 cm), semi-double, 5-8 flowers are collected in the inflorescence. The leaf is large, leathery, shiny. The bushes are vigorous, spreading.
Variety 'Mozart'. The flowers are pink with a large white eye, the edges are dark pink, collected in large inflorescences. Bush up to 1 m high, spreading, blooms profusely and for a long time, frost-hardy.
Variety 'Ballerina'. The buds are elongated, pointed. The flowers are pale pink with a white center, fade to white, saucer-shaped, open, small (diameter 3-3.5 cm), 15-100 flowers in one inflorescence, non-double, weak-minded, collected in large inflorescences on thin graceful but strong shoots … Sepals and peduncles pubescent. Leaves are leathery, slightly shiny. The thorns are reddish. Bushes up to 1 m high, dense, spreading, bloom very profusely and for a long time. After correct and timely pruning of inflorescences that have lost their decorative effect, they bloom well again.