Peonies. Selection And Preparation Of A Landing Site. Care, Cultivation, Reproduction. Decorative Blooming. Garden Plants. We Break Up The Flower Garden. Flowers. A Photo

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Peonies. Selection And Preparation Of A Landing Site. Care, Cultivation, Reproduction. Decorative Blooming. Garden Plants. We Break Up The Flower Garden. Flowers. A Photo
Peonies. Selection And Preparation Of A Landing Site. Care, Cultivation, Reproduction. Decorative Blooming. Garden Plants. We Break Up The Flower Garden. Flowers. A Photo

Video: Peonies. Selection And Preparation Of A Landing Site. Care, Cultivation, Reproduction. Decorative Blooming. Garden Plants. We Break Up The Flower Garden. Flowers. A Photo

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Video: Peonies | Growing Tips & FAQ: Garden Home VLOG (2019) 4K 2023, February
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When creating good conditions during planting and in the process of growing, peonies grow in one place for 25 - 35 years. In the literature there is information about flowering bushes at the age of 50 and older.

  • Agrotechnics of peonies. Part 1: Selecting and Preparing a Landing Site
  • Agrotechnics of peonies. Part 2: Landing
  • Agrotechnics of peonies. Part 3: Care

Peonies are light-loving plants; they are best placed in open, sunny places, but protected from the prevailing winds. Peonies easily tolerate partial shade for 2-3 hours a day. In the shade, their bushes continue to develop well, but they stop blooming profusely. Peonies should not be planted closer than 1.5 m from the house, in the zone of the root system of trees and large shrubs, since a lack of nutrition and moisture can affect their development.

Peony
Peony

© patti haskins

Peonies grow well in almost any soils of various climatic zones, however, they prefer well-cultivated loamy soils, they do not tolerate only damp wetlands. If the groundwater in the garden area approaches closer than 50 cm from the soil level, the bushes are planted on high ridges or drainage ditches are arranged. Otherwise, the roots of plants rot, they get sick and after a few years they can die.

Further growth and long-term decorativeness of flowering bushes depends on how correctly the soil is prepared and the planting is performed. In most cases, the soils on the plots allocated for individual gardens are not very suitable for growing fruit, berry and flower plants and require domestication. To improve them, organic fertilizers are needed, which are able to provide plants with the necessary nutrients and improve the physical properties of the soil: structure, ability to retain moisture, etc. transformation of mineral fertilizers into substances assimilated by plants.

Peony
Peony

© sscornelius

The most affordable organic fertilizer is compost. It can be prepared in any garden area. There are enough materials for its preparation at each site. Compost is obtained as a result of decomposition of various household waste - yard waste, waste from the kitchen, as well as weeds, tops of various plants. In addition, amateurs often use, separately or in mixtures, pre-prepared nutrient substrates that contain organic fertilizers: turf, humus, leaf, peat and other soils. Methods for the preparation of compost and various nutrient mixtures are given in Appendix 2. The optimum acidity of any nutrient substrate when growing peonies is 6 - 6.5 pH.

For planting, pits are prepared with a depth of at least 60 cm, with a diameter of 60 -70 cm. This will make it possible for the bushes to form a powerful root system that goes to a considerable depth. By the age of five or six, it goes to a depth of 50 - 60 cm and reaches 60 - 70 cm in diameter. In smaller planting holes, the growth of the root system is delayed, respectively, the development and flowering of the bushes are suspended. The distance between the bushes when laying a flower garden for a long period should be 70-100 cm. In the future, this will facilitate the processing of the bushes, provide sufficient air circulation between them, and largely prevent the spread of fungal diseases.

Peony
Peony

© susteph

It is advisable to prepare the landing pits in advance (in July), so that by the time of planting the earth in them has settled properly. When digging holes, the upper cultivated soil layer is laid aside, the rest of the soil is removed. A mixture of organic fertilizers (preferably a mixture of rotted manure with compost and peat), 150-200 g of superphosphate or 300-400 g of bone meal and 150-200 g of potassium sulfate is introduced into the lower half of the pit. On clay and loamy acidic soils, add 150-200 g of finely ground slaked lime. Add soil here from the top layer (approximately to the middle of the pit), mix everything thoroughly and tamp. The resulting nutrient layer will serve as a supply of plant nutrients for the future.

The upper part of the pit (25-30 cm) is filled with the remaining soil from the upper cultivated layer without mineral fertilizers. If it is not sufficiently cultivated and is heavy in composition, you can add two to three buckets of sifted compost, turf or leafy soil to this soil. On clay soils, half a bucket or one bucket of river sand is added to the mixture, and on sandy soils, one and a half buckets of clay are added to the bottom of the pit before mixing.

Peony
Peony

© foilman

If it is planned to plant a significant number of peony bushes on the garden plot, planting them in specially prepared trench ridges will give the best results. The laboriousness of preparing trenches in the future will fully pay off with good growth and long-term highly decorative flowering of bushes. In the trench, the most favorable conditions are created for the development of a powerful root system and thereby for obtaining high quality flowers. In trench ridges, bushes can bloom profusely up to 10 - 15 years of age or more. So, in our experience, plants even at the age of 20 - 25 had up to 50 - 60 high quality flowers. The trench is laid like a separate pit: organic fertilizers are added to the lower part and the mixture is prepared in layers. At the bottom of the trench, you can lay a layer of grass, leaves and other plant debris 10-15 cm high.Over the course of several years, plant residues will grind and form a good organic layer. It is not recommended to put fresh manure in the lower part of the pit, as it decomposes very slowly under these conditions. It is better to prepare humus soil from it in advance, and add it at the rate of two or three buckets per 1 m2.

Before digging a trench, the site for it is divided in width and length, driving in pegs. If the planting will be carried out in one row, the width of the trench should be 70 -80 cm, if in two rows (staggered) - 110-120 cm.It is not recommended to make the trench wider, since weeding, loosening the soil, fertilizing and etc. The trench must be tightly filled, because the loose soil then subsides heavily. It is advisable to prepare a trench, like pits, in advance - two to three months before planting. When preparing, take into account that garden soil and organic fertilizers will require much more than when preparing pits. It is also necessary to prepare in advance a place for uncultivated soil from the lower layer, which will also be a significant amount.

Peony
Peony

© patti haskins

For growing non-standard divisions with one or two buds, they arrange ridges of schools, better ridges-trenches, but you can also use ridges with a fertile layer of at least 30 cm.They are filled with compost or rotted manure with peat - two or three buckets per 1 m2. On heavy soils, add half a bucket of river sand per 1 m2.

Materials used:

D. B. Kapinos, V. M. Dubrov - "Peonies in the Garden"

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