Table of contents:
Video: Pion. Landing. Care, Cultivation, Reproduction. Decorative Blooming. Garden Plants. Flowers. A Photo
- Agrotechnics of peonies Part 1: Selection and preparation of a site for planting
- Agrotechnics of peonies. Part 2: Landing
- Agrotechnics of peonies. Part 3: Care
The best time for planting and transplanting peonies is mid-August-late September (for the middle lane). They can withstand a later planting (during October), but it is better to plant as early as possible so that the plants have time to take root and the bushes develop faster. Peony bushes, intended for planting, are dug up and divided. Usually, by August 10-15, the plants complete the formation of renewal buds on the rhizome, from which new shoots will grow next year and flowers are formed. However, at this time the suction roots were not yet developed. For their formation, an additional relatively warm period is required.
If necessary, it is possible to plant peonies in early spring, when the plants have not yet begun to grow. For the middle lane, this is usually the first half of April, immediately after the snow melts and the soil thaws. However, peonies tolerate spring transplanting very painfully, especially if it is associated with the division of the bushes, and, as a rule, lag behind the bushes planted in autumn by a year. They tolerate landing worst of all when the buds have already begun to grow. In these cases, under adverse weather conditions, the probability of their death is very high. Therefore, we advise you to transplant peonies in early spring only when absolutely necessary.
If the bush does not undergo division during transplantation and is only transferred from place to place "with a lump", it develops normally, and the transplantation process is painless for it. This technique is widely used when transplanting, both in spring and in autumn, young one-two-year-old bushes from schools to a permanent place.
The most important thing when planting is to correctly set its depth. It should be such that above the upper buds of renewal (eyes), the soil layer is 3 - 5 cm on heavy loamy soils and 5 - 7 - on light sandy soils. However, a greater depth is recommended for interspecific hybrids. If the seats are not prepared in advance, take into account the total draft of the loose soil in the pit and plant the delenki higher.
To set the planting depth correctly, use a landing board 100 cm long and 20-25 cm wide. In the center of the board, a 5 cm thick bar is nailed from below for loamy soils and 7 cm for sandy loam soils. During planting, the board is placed above the pit - the lower part of the nailed plank will show the level of deepening of the upper renewal buds from the soil level. After adding loose soil, the roots of the plants are tightly squeezed with hands so that the soil particles fit snugly to the roots and there are no voids. Watering immediately after squeezing the roots also contributes to soil compaction. At least 5 liters of water are consumed per bush, after which the garden soil is again poured to the desired level.
© Chris. P
You should not tamp the soil around the bush with your feet - this can break fragile roots. If the renewal buds are deeper than 5 cm from the soil level, the bushes, despite good growth, will bloom poorly in the future; if the bush is planted shallowly, so that the buds of renewal peep out of the ground, it develops poorly, gets sick due to drying out or damage to the kidneys.
The next year after planting, the plants are examined. Incorrectly planted bushes are transplanted. Finely planted plants (when the buds are peeking out to the surface) can be covered in spring with a box of boards 60 x 60 cm, 10 cm high and poured into it with loose garden soil to the desired height. However, after a year, it is advisable to transplant this bush according to all the rules. With a deep planting, the bush can be lifted with two shovels with a lump and poured garden soil under it.
To reduce the likelihood of root decay, when planting a rhizome with eyes, the central part of the cut is covered with river sand with the addition of one or two tablespoons of wood ash. Watering after planting speeds up rooting. If the weather is dry, the newly planted plants are periodically watered as the soil dries up until late autumn.
Subject to the timing of planting in the middle lane, young bushes do not need to be covered. For late planting, as well as in the northern and cold eastern regions, peonies are covered for the winter with a layer of leaf, peat or compost 10-12 cm thick.
In order not to confuse the varieties in the future, pegs with the names of the varieties are placed in the planting sites, and in the journal they must draw a plot plan indicating the date of planting and the name of the variety. If the labels with the variety name are later lost or confused, the variety can be installed according to plan.
D. B. Kapinos, V. M. Dubrov - "Peonies in the Garden"