Table of contents:
- The first mistake. Thickened planting of tomatoes
- The second mistake. Incorrect formation of tomatoes
- Error three. Incorrect disembarkation dates
- The fourth error. Improper watering
- Mistake five. Excessive defoliation
- What should we do and what we often don't do?
Video: Errors That Reduce The Yield Of Tomatoes. Secrets Of Growing Tomatoes
Who would not agree that a good harvest is the result of competent regular care of the crop ?! However, today in the world of gardening there are so many tips and advisers that often a good intention - to help your beds, translates into a deterioration in the quality and quantity of the crop or lengthens the time of its ripening. Let's look at what are the most common mistakes gardeners make when taking care of their tomatoes.
- Thickened planting of tomatoes
- Incorrect formation of tomatoes
- Incorrect disembarkation dates
- Improper watering
- Excessive defoliation
- What should we do and what we often don't do?
The first mistake. Thickened planting of tomatoes
Most inexperienced vegetable growers, in an effort to increase the yield of tomatoes, resort to compacted crop plantings. However, in order for the plants to fully develop and, as a result, lay, form and be able to give a full harvest, they need not only a sufficient amount of light, nutrients, but also ventilation.
Thickened planting of tomatoes deprives them of all this, increasing the risk of not only defective plant formation (stretching of internodes, laying fewer flower buds), but also a tendency to disease, slower growth and ripening of fruits.
How to properly place tomato seedlings in the garden?
The tomato planting scheme is based on a number of factors at once: plant height, the need for pinching, a garter. Here the description of the variety becomes a good helper, focusing on which you can plan in advance what the features of caring for the formed plantings will be. So, tall tomatoes are placed in the amount of 3-4 plants per 1 sq. M, less tall ones - 4-5 plants per 1 sq. M.
The most common planting schemes are: for low-growing varieties - 30 cm between tomatoes and 60 cm between rows, medium-sized ones - 35 cm between tomatoes and 70-75 cm between rows, tall (determinant and indeterminate with a garter) 40-45 cm between tomatoes and 60 cm between the rows.
There is an option for double planting: on a bed 50 cm wide, plants are planted in two rows in a checkerboard pattern, with a row spacing of 80 cm.However, you can find other recommendations, but whatever you choose, the main thing is not to place the plants too close, leaving a place for them to grow.
The second mistake. Incorrect formation of tomatoes
The second wrong trick in an effort to increase the yield of tomatoes is a gentle attitude towards stepsons. Of course, there are varieties (usually early undersized bush forms) that do not need to be pinched, but in the vast majority of other cases, an excessive number of additional branches on the main trunk of the plant significantly delays the ripening time of the crop, and, as a result, reduces the number of high-quality fruits. At the same time, the timely formation of the plant, in combination with pinching its tops in August, provides not only a full-fledged laying of tomatoes, but also their full ripening.
Error three. Incorrect disembarkation dates
The next mistake causing a decrease in tomato yield is planting seedlings later than recommended in a given climatic zone, dates. Some gardeners justify this technique by the fact that in this way their plants are more protected from possible return frosts, however, overgrown seedlings take longer to take root and give more energy to development, which affects the number of ovaries, and the endurance of plants, and the final quality of fruits.
The fourth error. Improper watering
Another common mistake in caring for this crop is over-watering the plants. Surface watering has especially unfavorable consequences. Regularly soaking only the top layer under the tomatoes, gardeners do not allow the root system to go deeper (and in a full-fledged plant of this culture they go into the ground up to 1.5 m), which significantly worsens the resistance of tomatoes to drought, stimulates the enhanced development of green mass and oppression of flower buds of the lower inflorescences. However, the lack of moisture also has its consequences - the fall of the ovaries and buds, the cracking of the fruit and the defeat of the top rot.
How to properly water tomatoes?
Tomatoes actually need more moisture, but only in the first few weeks after planting. Further, the rule is included: less often, but abundantly. There are even methods that use mulching, for example, with paper, completely eliminating the need for additional watering. However, the more common agricultural techniques of this culture are still based on regular morning or evening watering 2 times a week, but from the moment of mass setting of the future harvest.
Watering should be carried out at the root or in the furrow, otherwise you can provoke leaf burn or the development of late blight. The leaves will show whether the moisture is enough for the plants or not. If not, they will acquire a dark color and begin to fade in the heat. In general, when watering, you need to proceed at the rate of 3 - 5 liters per plant.
Mistake five. Excessive defoliation
Knowing that the method of breaking the lower leaves of tomatoes can be used to accelerate the ripening of fruits, many abuse this technique. By removing healthy foliage, especially immediately after watering, we reduce the plant's evaporation area, which is why all the moisture is sent to the fruits, which leads to their excessive wateriness and cracking. It is good to pick off yellowed leaves that are damaged, but no more than three at a time.
What should we do and what we often don't do?
Based on the fact that tomatoes are a self-pollinated crop, it is good to help them in pollination. To do this, you do not need to walk with a brush and pollinate each flower separately, but it is enough to lightly shake the plants to stimulate the ingress of pollen on the pistil. And the best time for this is a warm sunny afternoon from 12:00 to 13:00.
Mulching of the soil has a good effect on growth and development, and therefore on crop yields. Mulch not only slightly cools the ground (and we know that tomatoes love to keep their "feet" cool), retains moisture, but also makes it possible for worms to develop in the beds, the product of which is coprolite - a natural fertilizer that stimulates growth, development and, most importantly, plant immunity.