How To Grow A Walnut From A Nut? Preparation Of Nuts. Sowing. Transplanting Seedlings Into Open Ground. Photo

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How To Grow A Walnut From A Nut? Preparation Of Nuts. Sowing. Transplanting Seedlings Into Open Ground. Photo
How To Grow A Walnut From A Nut? Preparation Of Nuts. Sowing. Transplanting Seedlings Into Open Ground. Photo

Video: How To Grow A Walnut From A Nut? Preparation Of Nuts. Sowing. Transplanting Seedlings Into Open Ground. Photo

Video: How To Grow A Walnut From A Nut? Preparation Of Nuts. Sowing. Transplanting Seedlings Into Open Ground. Photo
Video: How To Grow Walnut Akhroot From Seeds.. Germination. Step by step process. Market bought seeds 2024, March
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I think everyone knows about the taste and benefits of walnut fruits. Surely, many, taking out tasty kernels from the shell, wondered: "Shouldn't I grow it on the site, and from the nuts themselves, because in fact these are the same seeds as in other plants?" There are many gardening myths and legends around the cultivation of walnuts. Half of them turn out to be false. Therefore, plant and test with your own experience. We will talk about the features of growing walnuts from a nut in this article.

How to grow a walnut from a nut
How to grow a walnut from a nut

Content:

  • In autumn or spring - when is it better to sow a nut?
  • Artificial stratification is a mandatory stage of spring sowing
  • How to properly sow a nut into the ground?
  • Features of transplanting walnut seedlings from a school
  • What to do to make the walnut fruit large?

In autumn or spring - when is it better to sow a nut?

There are, by and large, two options: sow in autumn or sow in spring. Autumn sowing, it is very simple - you take the nuts, bury them on the site and wait until spring, when they will sprout, or maybe not. Much depends on the region and its climatic characteristics. In the southern regions with mild winters, perhaps this option is quite acceptable.

And in the north, where winters are long, frosty and also with little snow, autumn sowing is a matter, I will not say that it is impossible, but risky. Long lying in the ground may not do them good, and there will certainly be those who want to grind their teeth about them. So, although sowing in autumn is easy, it is still better to do everything in a controlled manner and with guaranteed success, which means sowing in spring. And we'll talk about this in more detail.

Artificial stratification is a mandatory stage of spring sowing

In order for the nuts to sprout in spring, they must undergo long-term stratification - treatment with cold and moisture for about 100 days.

To do this, take a container, a bucket, a saucepan, a basin, a container, a flower pot are suitable, depending on the number of nuts that you want to lay for stratification. At the bottom of the container we pour a layer of wet sand, not very wet and not completely dry, from the street. This layer is about 5 cm thick (not essential). We put nuts on top of it.

We put it with a distance so that the gap between the neighboring ones is at least 1 cm, and again we fill it with sand. On top, you can lay out the second layer of nuts and again cover with sand. You can make a multi-layer "cake" of nuts and sand, but the bottom and top layers should be just wet sand.

We place this container in the cold for 100 days. The temperature should be within + 3 … + 7 degrees (basement, refrigerator, unheated garage, etc.) At this temperature, the sand will remain wet for a long time, but if necessary, sometimes it can be slightly moistened.

Now let's calculate when this process is best to start. It is possible, of course, in the fall, but then you will have additional troubles with seedlings that have appeared too early, you will have to keep them at home and equip them with additional lighting.

It is optimal to start everything right after celebrating the Old New Year. For example, in the morning we woke up on January 15 and we start. 100 days will expire by April 25, and there is already a lot of warmth and light outside. Of course, these dates can be shifted, depending on the region and your desire.

Walnut Stratification
Walnut Stratification

How to properly sow a nut into the ground?

After 100 days we take out the nuts from the sand and, in fact, we sow them either in a special school, or immediately to a permanent place. Sowing in the case of a walnut is placing the walnut in a hole. How deep? The general rule works here: the depth should be equal to three diameters of the nut itself. In practice, this is 7-10 cm. Moreover, it is advisable to lay the nut in this hole correctly, so that the sprout that forms does not waste time and effort to get out of an uncomfortable position.

As practice shows, putting the nut is not worth the tip up or the tip down, but on the side (tip sideways), so that the seam is below and above. In about a couple of weeks, seedlings will appear from the already warm soil.

When planting, put the nut in the ground so that the seam is below and above
When planting, put the nut in the ground so that the seam is below and above

Features of sowing thin-peeled nuts

There is one nuance here that can nullify all your efforts. Probably heard that there are thick-peeled nuts - "greedy", and there are thin-peeled nuts. This concept is not entirely accurate, but nonetheless. If the nut breaks easily when squeezed with fingers, then it is considered thin-crust. Such nuts may not last the prescribed 100 days until warm and simply rot. You can do differently with them.

Around the border of March and April, such nuts are put into a glass, enamel, plastic or stainless steel container and filled with water for 5-7 days. The main thing is to take water not chlorinated tap water, but natural water, from a river, lake, rain or melt. They change the water once a day and do it all at room temperature.

Such soaking allows you to break the integrity of the shell (water gets to the kernel), and partially remove the substances contained in the nut that block germination. After this procedure, the stratification process takes less time. Soaked nuts, too, are laid in wet sand, but for only 20 days, and kept at room temperature about +20 degrees. The sprouts appear directly from the sand. Sprouted nuts must be carefully removed and planted in prepared pits to the desired depth, naturally with the roots down, and shoot up.

That's actually the whole process of germination, seedlings are given one year to grow up in a school, and then carefully, trying to preserve the root, they are dug up and planted in a permanent place.

Thin-peeled nuts are soaked in water for 5-7 days before stratification
Thin-peeled nuts are soaked in water for 5-7 days before stratification

Features of transplanting walnut seedlings from a school

Walnut is a large plant and takes up a lot of space on the site. When planting one nut, you should not plant other plants and trees within a radius of 10 m from it. Besides the large shade, walnut leaves have another peculiarity. They contain the substance juglone, which has a depressing effect on other plants (even weeds under the nut do not grow well).

I think that nut fertilizers are superfluous. Moreover, it has been noticed that on highly fertile soil, the walnut does not tolerate winter frosts well.

Why is it better to plant seedlings in a school? Even if you only need one seedling, lay several nuts for stratification and germination. Transplant the seedlings into a school, with a distance of 40-50 cm, and only after a year from the school you will choose the strongest seedling and plant it in a permanent place.

Walnut often self-sowing (and birds are actively sowing it in the area), so you can simplify everything and just dig up ready-made seedlings under the familiar nut. There are especially many of them where foliage is not raked. In foliage, nuts undergo natural stratification and the fittest survive.

It is worth planting a nut according to the rules. To do this, they dig a hole 60x60x60 cm. A stake is installed at the bottom and a seedling from a school with a lump of earth is placed next to it. It is recommended not to change the orientation of the seedling to the cardinal points and in no case to deepen the root collar. Immediately after planting, the seedling must be securely tied to the stake and watered abundantly. Reliable fixation and absence of air voids at the roots contributes to quick and easy survival.

The formation of the crown begins a year after planting, leaving the central conductor and three branches branching towards the side.

Walnut often self-seeds, so you can just dig up ready-made seedlings under the familiar nut
Walnut often self-seeds, so you can just dig up ready-made seedlings under the familiar nut

What to do to make the walnut fruit large?

Often gardeners argue about whether the properties of the mother walnut plant are preserved when sowing with seeds? In other words, if I plant a large nut, will there be large nuts on the future tree? Opinions differ. Apparently the truth, as always, is in the middle. It's just that those who planted a large nut and harvest the same large nuts will claim that they save. Those who, having planted a large, received a trifle in the end, will deny this. Apparently, you need to plant 100 nuts in one area and find out the percentage of repetition of maternal properties.

In fact, everything is simpler. The nut changes perfectly with the help of grafting, and any, whether it be grafting with an eye or a graft. You need to find and plant a known good and large variety on your grown seedling. Cuttings should be taken from young, but already fruiting trees.

It is believed that a nut grown from a nut takes too long to bear fruit, after 8-10 years, but there are some agrotechnical methods that allow this period to be halved, to 4-5 years.

Good luck and good harvests!

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