Lashenalia Is The Winter Sun. Description. Home Care. Photo

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Lashenalia Is The Winter Sun. Description. Home Care. Photo
Lashenalia Is The Winter Sun. Description. Home Care. Photo

Video: Lashenalia Is The Winter Sun. Description. Home Care. Photo

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Bulbous crops are one of the few indoor plants, among which winter flowering is not considered something outlandish. And if most of the stars flaunt with delicate pastel colors, then one bulbous literally brings a little bright African sun into the house. Lashenalia is a non-standard exotic and culture is not for everyone. To succeed and wait for flowering, you need to keep this plant cool. And caring for her is also not easy.

Lachenalia aloe, or Lachenalia aloides (Lachenalia aloides)
Lachenalia aloe, or Lachenalia aloides (Lachenalia aloides)

Content:

  • Indoor lashenalia - a plant not for everyone
  • Conditions required by the license
  • Lasenalia care
  • Diseases and pests of lashenalia
  • Reproduction of lashenalia

Indoor lashenalia - a plant not for everyone

Lachenalia also lahenaliya (Lachenalia) - culture, which used to be seen primarily as a cutting plants, and it is traditionally grown in greenhouses. But in winter, when there is a lack of bright colors, in addition to cyclamens and poinsettias, blooming lachenalia increasingly appear on the shelves. Today this plant can be considered quite indoor. True, only those who can provide it with a cool temperature and sufficient illumination in winter are choosing lashenalia.

This amazing bulbous plant came to us from the Cape Province of South Africa and, of course, is one of the brightest blooming African exotic plants in the interior. There are about 90 types of bulbous plants in the genus Lachenalia. But as a room culture, only the most spectacular plant of the genus is used - Lachenalia aloides, and even that is represented mainly by hybrid varieties with improved flowering characteristics.

Lachenalia is considered a unique bulbous not only because of its extremely decorative flowering, but also because each bulb most often produces only two leaves. The lack of an attractive turf could be considered a disadvantage, if not for the abundant flowering, which completely "overlaps" the greenery.

In length, narrow, belt-like-linear, with brown spots on the upper plate, lashenalia leaves grow up to 25 cm, at the base they are surrounded by filmy closed scales. Even this pair of leaves is discarded by the plant before the dormant period. Bulbs are spherical or slightly flattened, 1.5 to 3 cm in diameter, with juicy golden closed scales.

Lashenalia flower stalks up to 25 cm high are quite powerful, crowned with a loose inflorescence brush that looks airy and spectacular. One adult bulb is capable of producing not one, but up to four peduncles. It usually takes about 2 months from the beginning of leaf growth to flowering. Narrow-tubular flowers of lashenalia, most often drooping, flaunt bright and uneven color. The length of the flowers is up to 3.5 cm. One brush contains from 10 to 40 flowers, the upper ones do not fully open.

Usually the base yellow color is combined with red or purple “stripes” at both ends of the flower (the color of the tube differs from the bent petals at the edge and from the base), in some varieties the bright red color of the buds is replaced by pure yellow flowers, and the flowers themselves are decorated with specks. In room culture, yellow-flowered rather than red-flowered lashenalia are more common. But the palette of colors always includes only fiery options - yellow, red, orange. Today, “outlandish” pink and olive green lachenals are very popular.

Traditionally, the flowering period of lashenalia falls in the middle of winter, lasts from January to March. If desired, it can be "shifted", but only if you have the opportunity to provide coolness at other times, and even then we are talking about a month or two difference, since comfortable temperatures can be found only from the second half of autumn to mid-spring. One of the main advantages of lashenalia is that young plants very often bloom even in the first year.

The rest period for Lashenalia, respectively, falls on the summer.

Lachenalia aloe, or Lachenalia aloides (Lachenalia aloides)
Lachenalia aloe, or Lachenalia aloides (Lachenalia aloides)

Conditions required by the license

Growing lashenalia is not an easy task. This plant can be recommended not only to experienced flower growers, but also to those who have the opportunity to organize its specific content. After all, the air temperature of about 12 degrees during flowering is unattainable for the absolute majority.

Lighting for Lashenalia

This is an extremely sun-loving culture that is not afraid of even direct sunlight (except for midday). The brighter the lighting for lashenals during the active growing season, the better. In winter, when lashenalia usually bloom, additional lighting is indispensable.

Even displaying on southern windowsills will not be enough, especially if the weather is cloudy. Leafless plants are placed in shade, bringing to light only with signs of resumption of growth.

Comfortable temperature

The selection of conditions specifically for temperatures is, of course, the most difficult moment in growing this bulbous. Lashenalia can bloom only in the cool. And the conditions should be very atypical for living rooms: the optimal temperature range is from 8 to 14 degrees Celsius.

At the same time, it is extremely important to provide such coolness precisely at night, but during the day the temperature can be several degrees warmer. The maximum allowable temperature for a capricious beauty is about 16 degrees.

During the dormant period, the bulb that has dropped the leaves will feel good at room temperature; you will not have to create any special conditions for lashenalia. Leafless bulbs are not at all afraid of the heat.

It is important for lashenalia to provide regular ventilation, even during rest periods.

Lachenalia aloe, or Lachenalia aloides (Lachenalia aloides)
Lachenalia aloe, or Lachenalia aloides (Lachenalia aloides)

Air humidity

Air humidity for lashenalia is not important, but the plant does not like either too high or extremely low these indicators. Spraying directly depends on the air temperature: it is undesirable to carry out it in the cool, and during the period when Lashenalia puts up with the heat, she simply does not need it.

But if the plant suffers from high temperatures during flowering or active growth of leaves (and there is no way to lower the temperature), then it is better to start neat spraying. But regular wiping of the surface of lashenalia leaves with a damp sponge or cloth to clean it from dust is very important and obligatory. During budding and flowering, they are wiped several times a week.

Lasenalia care

Unlike the selection of conditions, the care procedures cannot be called complicated. Lashenalia requires only regular procedures during the period of active growth, and for several months you can “forget” about the plant.

Watering lashenalia

Constant and light humidity, without overdrying or overflowing - this is the main goal that should be set when caring for lashenalia that is in the active vegetation stage. At the same time, it is better to replace too abundant watering with more frequent and accurate ones.

Watering is completely stopped when the yellowing of the foliage begins in the lashenalia (a few weeks after the end of flowering). Until growth resumes, lashenalia is not watered, carefully starting to resume caring for it only at the first signs of leaf growth. Irrigations are increased gradually, initially limiting themselves to scarce and rare irrigations, then increasing the frequency and only then the amount of water used.

After each procedure, the soil is slightly loosened, maintaining its breathability. Lashenalia is one of the few indoor plants that love mulching the soil (you can use any mulch, from decorative materials to moss).

Top dressing for lashenalia

This plant needs fertilizers only during the period of active growing season - not only flowering and budding, but also the growth of leaves. Feeding is carried out weekly, but the dose of fertilizers indicated by the manufacturer is halved.

For lashenalia, it is preferable to use only fertilizers for decorative flowering plants.

Lachenalia aloe, or Lachenalia aloides (Lachenalia aloides)
Lachenalia aloe, or Lachenalia aloides (Lachenalia aloides)

Pruning lashenalia

You can remove the peduncles from this bulbous immediately after the flowers wither. But the leaves are cut off only after they have completely dried out. Even yellowed, but retaining some vitality and "juices" leaves should be left on the plant until complete withering away: so the lashenalia bulbs are much better stocked with nutrients and prepare for the dormant period.

Lasenalia transplant and substrate

Unlike the bulbous, developing "nests", Lashenalia prefers an annual transplant. It is carried out after a dormant period, at the beginning of autumn or immediately after the leaves have completely died off. In many ways, the requirement for an annual transplant is due to the fact that the plant prefers medium-sized containers, and with the active formation of daughter bulbs, which it is desirable to separate immediately. For the rest period itself, the plant is always left in the soil - old or fresh, putting the pots in the dark (at room temperature).

Many flower growers grow lashenalia even in "garden" soil, adding peat and sand to it to improve its characteristics. But it is better to use a light and high-quality universal substrate for flowering crops or a more "highly specialized" soil mixture for bulbous crops. Before planting this plant, it is better to disinfect the substrate.

For lashenalia, typical shallow containers are selected - wide vessels, the height of which is much inferior to the diameter. But at the same time, the containers should also be medium-sized: most often pots with a diameter of about 12-14 cm are chosen for lashenalia. A high layer of drainage must be laid at the bottom of the containers.

It is better to plant lashenalia not one by one, but in small groups (from 5-8 onions). During transplantation, the bulbs must be carefully examined, immediately treating the damaged ones or throwing them away altogether, using only healthy planting material for planting. Lachenalia bulbs are buried completely, submerging 2-3 cm from the bottom (so that the neck of the bulb is approximately at the same level with the soil).

To protect against rot and waterlogging, lashenalia is often recommended to be grown with upper drainage: the bulbs are immersed in the soil up to half, and expanded clay, gravel or other mulch are poured flush with the neck. After planting, abundant watering is carried out, but then these procedures are stopped until signs of leaf growth appear.

Lachenalia aloe, or Lachenalia aloides (Lachenalia aloides)
Lachenalia aloe, or Lachenalia aloides (Lachenalia aloides)

Diseases and pests of lashenalia

Lashenalia is afraid of only two factors - waterlogging and soil compaction. If you do not loosen the soil, choose the wrong substrate, or allow excessive watering, the plant can suffer from rot and other fungal diseases. These problems must be tackled with a combination of maintenance correction and treatment with systemic fungicides.

Of the pests, lashenals are threatened by mealybugs, aphids and spider mites. You can fight them both with insecticides and washing the leaves with correction of care.

Common problems in growing lachenalia:

  • stretching plants in poor lighting;
  • blanching of leaves, drooping of leaves in drafts, low or hot temperatures and in the shade;
  • poor bloom of lashenalia in too high temperatures.

Reproduction of lashenalia

Thanks to the active education of children who are able to bloom, if not for the first, then for the second year, it is very easy to propagate lashenalia. Plant seeds are rarely found on the market, and to get new plants, it is enough to separate the mother and daughter bulbs every time you transplant and plant them again in groups of 3-4 daughter plants in new and slightly smaller pots than in adult bulbs.

It is not worth "mixing" adult lashenalia bulbs with "babies". Immediately after planting, the bulbs are watered minimally, gradually increasing the amount of water from the third week after planting.

You can use other methods if you wish.

In lashenalia, leafy cuttings are rooted (up to 3 bulbs are formed at the base of the leaf). Leaves need to be cut-separated at the very base, below the substrate level. They are rooted in the sand, deepening by 1.5-2 cm, with uniform watering and shading.

If you managed to get lashenalia seeds by the method of artificial pollination of the lower flowers or get the seeds, then they are sown as quickly as possible, laying out one by one at a distance of 2 cm on the surface of the sandy-peat substrate. Germinate seeds at high humidity under a film or glass.

The minimum temperature for rooting lashenalia is 18 degrees. Underground germination, that you have achieved success, can be understood only by the appearance of the first leaf above the surface (the seeds themselves remain in the soil). It is very important for young lashenals to provide bright lighting and stable light soil moisture.

Derived from leafy cuttings or seeds, lashenalia usually bloom in the second year.

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