Rose Flower. Climbing. Care, Cultivation, Reproduction, Pruning. Flower. Types, Varieties. Photo

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Rose Flower. Climbing. Care, Cultivation, Reproduction, Pruning. Flower. Types, Varieties. Photo
Rose Flower. Climbing. Care, Cultivation, Reproduction, Pruning. Flower. Types, Varieties. Photo

Video: Rose Flower. Climbing. Care, Cultivation, Reproduction, Pruning. Flower. Types, Varieties. Photo

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Video: How to plant, care and prune climbing roses? - all about climbing roses 2023, January

Climbing roses occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening, go well with small architectural forms, are indispensable for creating decorative columns, pyramids, arches, trellises, green decoration of walls of buildings, balconies, and arbors.

Climbing rose
Climbing rose

© Jess Beemouse

These roses are grown in areas with a relatively mild, warm climate, where they do not need to be covered for the winter. In central Russia, it is difficult to apply them on a large scale, but in household and garden plots they can be grown in most of the non-chernozem, forest-steppe and steppe zones, but be sure to cover them for the winter. Climbing roses, in turn, can also be classified. Different authors divide climbing roses in different ways and when describing varieties proceed from their own criteria.

In international practice, the following classification is usually applied:

The climbing group includes, first of all, real climbing or so-called curly (Rambler) roses with long flexible creeping or arcuate-rising shoots (lashes) from 1.5 to 5 m or more long… Their shoots are bright green and covered with thin crooked thorns. The flowers are small (2-2.5 cm in diameter), double, semi-double or simple of various colors. The flowers are generally weak-minded and collected in inflorescences. Real climbing roses bloom very profusely, mainly once for 30-35 days in the first half of summer. Flowers are located along the entire length of overwintered shoots. The leaves are small, leathery and shiny. Most varieties are quite winter hardy, winter well under a light dry shelter. This group of roses is derived from the related species R. Wichuroiana and the multiflora rose (R. multiflora) native to East Asia. In the 19th century, hybrid forms of these roses were introduced to culture in Europe.

In the future, they were repeatedly crossed with tea, tea-hybrid, floribunda, remontant. As a result of crosses and selections, modern climbing varieties with strong growth and long, up to 2-4 m, shoots were obtained. These are the so-called climbing roses (Climber), they are also called large-flowered climbing roses. They bloom abundantly and flowers are larger than that of real climbing roses (over 4 cm in diameter). Flowers are collected in loose small inflorescences. In the shape of the flower, some varieties of this group resemble hybrid tea roses, many varieties bloom again. They are relatively winter-hardy and resistant to powdery mildew disease or are weakly affected by it. This is the second variety, part of the climbing group.

And, finally, the third variety is climbing forms that have arisen as a result of bud mutations (Sport) obtained from hybrid tea, floribunda, grandiflora, i.e. from large-flowered bush roses. They differ from the parental varieties only in strong growth and a later entry into fruiting. They are called "climbings" and the climbing form of the variety is indicated by adding the word Climbing to the name of the variety. In these varieties, even larger flowers - from 4 to 11 cm, single or in small inflorescences. In our country, "climbings" can be used in landscaping, mainly only in the southern regions with milder winters. In the middle lane, they are severely damaged by the coniotirium.

Climbing rose
Climbing rose

© Monica Arellano-Ongpin


Location: sunny and well ventilated. Roses are light-loving plants, so it is best to plant them on the walls and supports of the southern and south-western exposure. Preference should still be given to the southern exposure; good illumination helps ripen the growth, which will bloom next year.

Landing: a strip of earth 50 - 60 cm wide is enough. They are planted in pre-prepared pits 50 x 50 cm in size.If the pits are dry, the day before planting, they must be watered and manure must be added - no less than half a bucket in each hole. In order for the bush to be strong and bloom profusely, after planting the plant must be cut 15 - 20 cm from the soil level. Climbing roses used to decorate walls and other objects are planted at a distance of at least 45 cm from the planting object.

Care: from the second year after planting, curly roses are content with minor care, which consists in rare but abundant watering, feeding and pruning. Dead branches are pruned to stimulate additional flowering. Roses are watered every 8 to 10 days. The soil around the plant is mulched with sawdust, humus, straw, grass. The cow dung, which is applied at planting, is used by the plants for two years. In subsequent years, fertilizers are needed, especially organic ones. In addition to manure, roses can be fed with mineral and complex fertilizers: TMAU (peat-mineral nitrogenous), flower mixture, etc. During the growing season, four to five additional fertilizing are required.

Climbing rose
Climbing rose

© Jess Beemouse


Climbing roses need pruning. Its main purpose is crown formation, obtaining abundant and long flowering, maintaining plants in a healthy state. In addition, pruning helps to achieve a continuous shoot coverage of the object near which the plants are planted. When pruning, special attention is paid to the regrowth and development of vegetative shoots, since flowering in climbing roses occurs on the growth of the last year.

With good care, roses grow long shoots during the summer period, up to 2-3.5 m. They are sheltered for the winter. In the spring of next year, only the frozen and podoprevshie shoots and ends of shoots are pruned on a strong external bud. The shoots that survived after overwintering are first spread on the ground so that strong replacement shoots develop at the base of the bush, ensuring the flowering of the bush for the next year. After the young shoots of replacement have reached a length of 50-70 cm, the old shoots, on which flowering should take place this year, are tied to supports. In the future, climbing roses are trimmed, depending on how these roses bloom, once or twice. These groups of roses differ significantly in terms of flowering and shoots.

The former form flowering branches on last year's shoots. They do not bloom again. In replacement of faded shoots, the so-called basic (basal), these roses form from 3 to 10 regeneration (replacement) shoots, which will bloom for the next season. In this case, the basal shoots after flowering are cut to the base, like in raspberries. Thus, bushes of single-flowering climbing roses should only consist of 3-5 annual and 3-5 two-year flowering shoots.

If climbing roses belong to the group of re-flowering, then flowering branches of different orders (from 2 to 5) are formed on the main shoots within three years, the flowering of such shoots weakens by the fifth year… Therefore, the main shoots are cut after the fourth year to the base. If many new strong recovery shoots are formed at the base of these shoots (which usually happens when the roses are well tended), then the main shoots are cut out as in the first group. In re-flowering bushes, it is sufficient to have 1 to 3 annual recovery shoots and 3 to 7 main flowering shoots. Re-blooming roses are recommended to be pruned in early spring. The point of pruning is to leave a limited number of the strongest, youngest and longest branches on the bush. If the lashes are too long compared to the support, they must be trimmed.

It is important to remember that climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, which must be preserved for their entire length, remove only the very tops with underdeveloped buds. When cultivated in a high agricultural background, climbing roses can form regeneration shoots in excessive quantities. This greatly thickens the bush, weakens the flowering and makes it difficult for shelter for the winter. Therefore, for abundant flowering of climbing roses, they should be pruned and the number of shoots should be regulated.

When pruning varieties from different groups of roses, it must be remembered that their flower buds are formed at different heights of the axial shoot. On this basis, curly roses can be divided into three groups.

In plants of the first group, each wintering bud on the last year's axial shoot, with the exception of the 5-10 lowest ones, differentiates into a flower bud. This phenomenon is typical for most varieties from the Vihuriana and Multiflora groups. Therefore, varieties of roses from these groups can be pruned depending on the height of the landscaped object.

In plants of the second group, flower buds are formed only in the upper and middle parts of the axial shoot, the lower buds remain vegetative. For varieties of this group, 'Paul Scarlet Climber', 'Glen Dale' and others, you can use high or medium pruning.

The third group includes plants in which only the buds located in the upper part of the axial shoot turn into flowering ones, while the lower and middle ones remain vegetative. These are mainly varieties of roses from the Banks group according to L. Uleiskaya, which need high pruning.

On an adult rose bush, remove as many old lashes as new ones appear from the base. For semi-growing roses from the Cordes and Lambert groups according to L. Uleiskaya, reaching a height of 3 m, a high or medium pruning is recommended. With regular low pruning, these plants can take the shape of a bush.

Pruning large-flowered varieties requires great attention. The length of their lashes should be commensurate with the size of the bush. If the bush is very strong, as, for example, in the 'Climing Gloria Day' variety, it is necessary to leave long lashes, in shorter bushes they should be shorter. If the branches of this group of roses are cut very shortly, then instead of flowering shoots, only vegetative ones will begin to grow. Often varieties of this group do not bloom. To achieve their flowering, you need to shorten the branches a little and tie them horizontally or obliquely.

Proper pruning and careful selection of varieties can ensure almost continuous flowering of roses in your garden during the growing season. Along with pruning, an important role is played by the garter of climbing roses, which should provide an inclined, horizontal or spiral arrangement of branches, which prevents the growth of vegetative shoots and stimulates the development of flowers.

Climbing rose
Climbing rose

© Jess Beemouse


Roses require shelter. It is important to remember one thing: between the roses and the shelter (film, roofing, etc.) there must be an air space on top… Roses die not so much from frost, but from soaking and damping during long winter thaws or in spring, when the covering material becomes denser and does not allow air to pass through well. It should be remembered that the preparation of roses for winter begins long before the onset of frost. Already at the end of August, it is necessary to stop watering and loosening the soil. At this time, it is no longer possible to feed the roses with nitrogen, but it is necessary to make potassium dressings to strengthen the tissue of the shoots. Roses should be covered for the winter only with the onset of steady drops in temperature to minus 5-6 ° C. Light frosts not only do not harm the roses, but even contribute to better ripening of the shoots and harden the plants. Premature shelter leads to the fact that plants germinate and weed out due to lack of air. The shelter is carried out in dry weather. Climbing roses are removed from the support,cut out damaged or rotten shoots and cleaned of leaves. After that, they twist, tie the lashes with twine and pin them with metal or wooden hooks to the ground. It is advisable to put dry leaves or spruce branches under them. From above, the shoots are covered with any covering material: dry leaves, spruce branches, wooden boxes, etc.


Propagate well by summer and winter cuttings… The easiest way is green cuttings, most climbing roses give almost 100% rooting. Green cuttings begin in mid-June and end in early August. Cuttings are cut from flowering or fading shoots with 1-2 internodes. The lower end is made oblique (at an angle of 45 °) directly under the kidney, the upper end is straight away from the kidney. The lower leaves are completely removed, and the rest are cut in half. The cuttings are planted in a substrate (in a mixture of earth and sand or in clean sand) in a pot or box to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The cuttings are covered with a glass jar or film on top and shaded from the sun. Watering is carried out without removing the film. Climbing roses usually root well without the use of growth substances. If a variety is known to root poorly,then the cuttings before planting are treated with an aqueous solution of heteroauxin (40-45 mg, or 0.5 tablets, per 1 liter of water) for 12-15 hours, immersing the tips of the shoots in a solution of 3 cm.Can be treated with an alcohol solution (50 ml 96% ethyl alcohol, 50 ml of water and 400 g of heteroauxin) for 5 seconds immediately before planting.

Only a small number of varieties from the large-flowered group are propagated by budding. It is carried out in August - early September with a sleeping eye in the root collar of a one- or two-year-old wild rose.

Climbing rose
Climbing rose

© Jess Beemouse


Multiflora Group

Snow White. The flowers are white, 12 cm in diameter, double (45 - 50 petals) with a pleasant aroma, In inflorescences up to nine flowers. Bush up to 3 m high, with dark green dense leaves. Suitable for landscaping low-rise buildings of various configurations. Resistant to pests and diseases.

Vihurian's group

Aelita. Flowers are white with a greenish tinge, goblet, 6.5 cm in diameter, double (48 petals), fragrant. Shrub up to 3 m high, with shiny small leaves. Repeats flowering. Suitable for gardening fences, low buildings, for group planting and cutting. Resistant to pests and diseases.

Belyanka. The flowers are white, slightly creamy with a pink center, 7 - 8 cm in diameter, double (35 - 50 petals), fragrant. Shrub up to 3 m high, with dark green dense, shiny leaves. Repeats flowering and blooms very profusely. Suitable for landscaping walls, fences, arbor, as well as for cutting.

Maiden Dreams. The flowers are orange-pink to coral, 6 cm in diameter, double (25 petals), the edges of the petals are corrugated and cut, in inflorescences up to 30 flowers. The bush is up to 3 m high, the leaves are dark green. Suitable for landscaping low-rise buildings, effective in boles.

Red Lighthouse. The flowers are fiery red with an orange tint, saucer-shaped, 8.3 cm in diameter, semi-double (21 petals), up to 13 flowers in inflorescences. Shrub up to 3.5 m high, with shiny dark green leaves. Suitable for gardening hedges, arbors, for single and group plantings and for boles. Resistant to pests and diseases.

Miskhor Stars. The flowers are orange-red, 8 cm in diameter, semi-double (19 petals), single or in inflorescences (up to 12 flowers). The bush is up to 3 m high, the leaves are dark green. Repeats flowering. Suitable for gardening fences, pergolas, arches, arbors.

Orange Sun. The flowers are pale orange, beautifully shaped, 12 cm in diameter, densely double (95 petals), with a weak aroma. Shrub up to 3 m high, with dark green dense glossy leaves. Suitable for gardening fences, walls, hedges and for cutting. Resistant to pests and diseases.

Pink News. The flowers are pale pink, 7-8 cm in diameter, semi-double (15-20 petals), with a fruity aroma. Shrub up to 3 m high, with tenacious shoots. The leaves are bright green, slightly corrugated. Repeats flowering. Suitable for landscaping pyramids, trellises, arches, pergolas, columns, as well as for boles.

Constellation Gagarin. The flowers are fiery orange-red, 7 cm in diameter, double (30 petals), in inflorescences up to 13 flowers. Bush up to 3 m high, with dark green dense leaves. Suitable for gardening arbors, arches, walls, trellises and for single plantings.

Foreign varieties

Vihurian's group

Alberic Barbier. The flowers are white with a creamy center 6.2 cm in diameter, densely double (up to 145 petals), single or in inflorescences (up to six flowers), with a weak aroma. Shrub up to 8 m high, with tenacious creeping shoots and shiny dark green foliage. Abundant and long-lasting flowering. Very often, flowering is repeated in autumn. Suitable for all types of vertical gardening. Resistant to pests and diseases.

Albertine. The flowers are salmon pink, 8 cm in diameter, double (33 petals), saucer-shaped, single or in inflorescences (up to seven flowers), with a strong aroma. Shrub up to b m. Leaves are light green. Suitable for gardening fences, gazebos, pergolas, covered alleys, for boles. Resistant to pests and diseases.

Glen Dale. The flowers are white, lemon-yellow in buds, goblet, 10 cm in diameter, double (28 petals), fragrant. Climbing bush, up to 3.5 m high. Leaves are dark green, dense, shiny. Long, moderate flowering. Suitable for landscaping walls, gazebos, tree trunks, hedges, pergolas. Resistant to pests and diseases.

Buildings. The flowers are carmine pink, 3 cm in diameter, double (90 petals), cupped, in inflorescences up to 22 flowers. Curly bush, 4 m high. Leaves are light green. Abundant flowering, repeated in some years. Suitable for landscaping slopes, pergolas, balconies, hedges, arranging garlands, as well as for weeping boles. Resistant to pests and diseases.

Coronation. The flowers are bright carmine-red, 4.2 cm in diameter, double (32 petals), cupped, in inflorescences up to 17 flowers. The bush is up to 8 m high. The leaves are light green. The flowering is very abundant. Suitable for all types of vertical gardening.

New Dawn. The flowers are pale pink with a salmon tint, 7.2 cm in diameter, semi-double (23 petals), with a pleasant apple scent, single or in inflorescences (up to 20 flowers). Climbing bush, 3.4 m high, with dark green shiny foliage. Flowering is very abundant and repetitive. Suitable for landscaping walls, hedges, terraces, gazebos, pergolas, slopes and for single plantings. In some years, it is affected by powdery mildew.

Climbing rose
Climbing rose

Pests and diseases

The most common on climbing roses are:

Powdery mildew is caused by the fungus Sphaerotheca pannosa Lev. White spots appear on the leaves, which gradually grow. Powdery mildew develops rapidly in hot and humid weather, usually in late July - early August. Plant growth stops, flowering ceases, and plant death may occur. As a preventive measure, a 2-fold spraying with Bordeaux liquid is recommended: along the sleeping buds after removing the shelter and along the growing (up to 20 cm) shoots.

Coniotirium (Coniothirium wersdorffiae Laub) - bark cancer, or "burn" of roses. Signs of the disease are detected when the shelter is removed in the spring. Initially, red-brown spots are formed on the bark of the shoots, which, growing, gradually turn black and can cover the entire shoot in a ring. The causative agent of the disease is located inside the tissue. The ringed shoots must be immediately cut out with the capture of the healthy part of the shoot and burned. The fungus develops most intensively in the dark under the winter shelter of roses for the winter, especially with high humidity. Preventive measures include reducing the dose of nitrogen in the fall, feeding with potash fertilizers to strengthen the tissues of the shoots, timely sheltering and airing during the winter thaws, timely removing the shelter in the spring, pruning and destroying the affected shoots.


Climbing roses are used in the figured design of arches, gazebos, pyramids, garlands, columns, pergolas, fences, arbours; for decorating walls of buildings, balconies. Especially decorative are compositions created from groups of varieties of climbing roses, as well as climbing roses on high boles..

The idea of ​​using shrubs and trees as support for climbing roses is not a human invention, but a way of life for these plants in the wild. On a large tree, climbing roses appear in all their lush splendor. Not all trees and shrubs are suitable for supporting climbing roses. Since the rose grows very quickly, the support plant must be large and tall enough. Do not use plants with vigorous growing roots that are close to the soil surface, which are in strong competition with the roots of the rose. We can recommend: broom, irgu, hornbeam, mountain ash, apple tree, pear, mountain pine, yew, larch.

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