Table of contents:
- 1. Incorrect ventilation
- 2. Too much moisture
- 3. Failure to comply with crop rotation
- 4. Calendar worship
- 5. Poor soil will not work
- 6. The more powerful the cucumber seedlings, the NOT better
- 7. Sustainability first
- 8. Don't over-plant
- 9. Too much sun
- 10. Forming cucumbers is required
- 11. Maybe it will pass by itself
- 12. Once fed - that's enough
- 13. Don't chase the mass
Video: The Main Mistakes When Growing Cucumbers. Photo
Cucumber, this crunchy vegetable is a welcome guest on any table, and therefore cucumber plants grow in almost every vegetable garden. They are grown both through seedlings and by simple sowing of seeds in the ground, both in protected ground and in a greenhouse. Cucumber has been in cultivation for a long time, a huge number of varieties have been bred and, it would seem, we should know everything about growing cucumber, but in reality this does not work out. Gardeners, especially beginners, as a rule, make a number of gross mistakes when growing a cucumber, which negates dreams of a high yield, and often the plants even die. In order to avoid mistakes, you need to know them, therefore in this article we will analyze in as much detail the most frequent mistakes as possible when growing cucumbers on our site.
1. Incorrect ventilation
Let's start with the greenhouse, here the most common mistake is not quite correct ventilation of the room. Some, fearing that the cucumbers may suffer from too high a temperature, open all the windows and doors of the greenhouse at once, thereby cooling the air in it, but at the same time creating a draft in the room, which cucumbers do not like very much. In fact, you can ventilate the greenhouse if the temperature in it rises above 30 degrees; in this case, it is impossible to open the vents and doors from all sides, but to do it one by one so that the air does not "walk" around the room.
2. Too much moisture
This error is relevant both for greenhouses and for open ground. Gardeners, in the hope of obtaining record yields of cucumbers, sometimes literally flood the plants, excessively moistening the soil, and even carry out such watering only from time to time, first testing the plants for drought resistance, and then pouring tens of liters of ice water on it.
This cannot be done, an excess of moisture in combination with heat can lead to outbreaks of various fungal diseases, and simply cause shock to the plant, and it will stop developing. Remember: cucumbers like watering moderate and constant, that is, without long breaks.
The main thing is to remember that you cannot dry out and fill the soil. Before flowering, cucumber plants need to be watered quite abundantly, pouring out a couple of buckets of room temperature water per square meter of soil once a week. Again, if it rains, and it is already wet, then watering is not needed, of course this is important for open soil.
Further, during the flowering period of cucumbers, you need to water carefully, trying not to fall on the flowers and with half the volume of water. After the fruits are tied, the amount of moisture poured out can be restored (two buckets per square meter). During the period of active growth of cucumber fruits, it is desirable to keep the soil in a slightly moist state.
3. Failure to comply with crop rotation
The logic of every gardener: when cucumbers gave an excellent harvest in one area, they need to be planted here the next year - is fundamentally wrong. Ideally, you should change the area for cucumber plants every year. An exception can be made only if you treat the area excellently, apply a full range of fertilizers and use reliable protection against pests and diseases, but even in this case, you should not grow cucumbers in one place for more than three years, they can start to hurt and give reduced harvests.
Crop rotation is also important, and non-compliance is a real mistake. So, for example, you cannot plant cucumbers on the site where pumpkin crops grew last year, but if legumes, greens, tomatoes and radishes grew, then it is quite possible. Cucumbers react tolerably to such predecessors as cabbage, onions and potatoes.
4. Calendar worship
The lunar calendar of the gardener and the gardener is wonderful, but only if you do not blindly follow its numbers and advice, but include logic. For example, if according to the calendar it is time to sow cucumber seedlings or sow seeds, and it is rather cold outside the window due to late spring, then in this case it is better to retreat from the calendar. The advice in the calendar must be combined with your own observations - wait for the heat, warm up the soil, the period when night frosts are excluded, and only then carry out sowing and planting.
5. Poor soil will not work
Blind disregard of all advice, including on fertilization due to fear of nitrate accumulation in fruits or simply because of the hope of chance, is not at all a way out. For example, if you sow cucumber seeds in poor soil, you are unlikely to get full-fledged plants and a good harvest. The soil must be fertilized using both organic matter and complex mineral fertilizers. For example, it is better to prepare the soil for cucumbers in the fall, add 2-3 kg of well-rotted manure or humus per square meter for digging the soil, 250-300 g of wood ash and a tablespoon of nitroammophoska.
6. The more powerful the cucumber seedlings, the NOT better
A global misconception is to grow seedlings as long as possible, and plant mature adult plants, almost with ovaries, on the site. In fact, there are much more minuses than pluses: an overgrown cucumber seedling also has an overgrown root system, and during transplantation it will almost certainly be injured; in addition, the overgrown, powerful seedlings are already so accustomed to the "home" conditions that even in the greenhouse they will recover for a long time, and in the open field they can simply die.
You should not keep cucumber seedlings for more than 32-33 days; ideally, its age can generally be from two to three weeks. If you plant more adult seedlings, then you will see all its shock from the transplant with your own eyes: it will look lethargic, as if it has little nutrition or moisture, it will take root for a long time in a new place and, as a result, simply lag behind in development. The gardeners even set up an experiment: they sowed cucumber seeds and planted overgrown seedlings, and so, it took so long to recover that even the seedlings had time to catch up with it, that is, the whole point of growing seedlings in this case was lost.
7. Sustainability first
Another mistake is to grow "environmentally friendly" vegetables without the use of growth regulators and any protection against pests and diseases, choosing only the newest varieties and hybrids. Alas and ah, this will not lead to a good result. Even the novelties of the world of breeding are not immune from attacks accumulated in your soil over the years of cultivating various crops on it, pests and diseases, and from the vagaries of nature - heat or severe cold snap, when the plants seem to fall asleep and do not want to wake up without growth stimulants.
Remember: everything is good in moderation - and the use of fungicides, insecticides, acaricides, growth regulators in accordance with the instructions on the package, which indicates the optimal processing times, and the frequency rate, and dosages - all these measures will not do anything bad, but only save you from disappointment, because of the wasted time.
8. Don't over-plant
Another mistake and common misconception is that the more cucumber plants are planted on the site, the higher the yields will be. In fact, the developed planting schemes for all plants without exception, including cucumber plants, are not taken from the ceiling. They are based on the optimal nutritional scheme for a particular plant, that is, the growth of its root system, aboveground mass and the absorption of substances necessary for the plant from a unit area.
For example, with regard to cucumbers having, as we all know, long lashes, then everything is exactly the opposite: rather, the fewer plants on the site, the higher the yield. You should not plant seedlings every 25 cm with row spacing of 30 cm, you need to place only a couple of plants per square meter, and you will be happy in the form of a solid harvest.
Better take care of the growth of the lashes in height by installing supports. In thickened plantings, the plants will literally fight for their existence, taking food from each other, they will become intertwined with whips, the air will not be able to circulate normally and there will be a risk of fungal infection. In such conditions, you will not get even and tasty cucumbers, they will rather be crooked and bitter.
9. Too much sun
An open area is good, since the risk of a fungal infection is lower, but on such an area the plants will require twice as much moisture, sprinkling irrigation will be impossible, because burns form on the leaf blades, the flowering period will be shorter, and the life of the plant itself is shorter. The most optimal place for planting cucumbers is a light shade, partial shade, then all troubles can be avoided. If you combine a light shade with a sparse planting and moderate watering, then nothing bad will happen.
What about those who have no shadow on the site? There is a way out - sow corn a week before planting cucumbers, stepping back from the future cucumber beds about one and a half meters. Corn is a good neighbor for a cucumber, and it just can create the necessary partial shade.
10. Forming cucumbers is required
Incorrect formation of cucumber plants or its complete absence is another mistake of the gardener. In this case, you can only count on a mediocre harvest, but the "harvest" of green mass in the form of lashes and leaf blades will definitely be excellent. Forms are necessary, and you should not be afraid of them. Take a closer look at the plant, are there many shoots, do they shade each other? If so, then the competitors can be pinched gently, thereby thinning the bush. This should be done especially at the very beginning of plant development, paying attention to the base of the bushes. After 2-3 leaves from the soil surface in the morning, when the cucumbers are in turgor, axillary shoots can be removed, this will allow feeding to be directed in the “right direction”.
For those who think that shaping a cucumber is a very difficult task, you can use the advice of experienced ones, it says - remove all stepsons from a cucumber to the fourth internode, and just pinch all those shoots that are higher.
11. Maybe it will pass by itself
Hope at random often leads to trouble. This applies to everything, including ignoring various cucumber ailments. Often, the gardener simply lets everything go by itself, and then complains about the variety: they say, the breeders deduce "what is horrible." In fact, any deviation from the norm in the appearance of a cucumber plant should already alert: there may be a lack of some element in the soil or a disease or pest is progressing.
Based on the first signs, one can identify one or another ailment and take action until the plant or the entire plantation has died. Usually, cucumber plants can be treated for diseases and pests right after planting the seedlings, then before flowering, then a couple of weeks after the second treatment and, finally, a couple of weeks before the green leaves appear.
12. Once fed - that's enough
Ever wondered why we eat three meals a day? That's right, because this way the body receives a sufficient amount of food and functions normally. So why does half of the gardeners make such a serious mistake as the only top dressing in the season? Imagine that the season is a day, so you need to feed the cucumbers at the very beginning of the season, in the middle and almost at the very end, only then the harvests will be full.
At the beginning of the season, cucumbers can be fed with nitroammophos by dissolving a tablespoon of this fertilizer (2-3 liters per square meter) in a bucket of water. During flowering, plants can be sprayed with boric acid (1 g per 5 liters of water, the norm per square meter), in addition, you can add a teaspoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, and during the ripening of cucumber fruits, feed again with the same doses of potassium and phosphoric fertilizers.
13. Don't chase the mass
Another serious mistake is waiting for the cucumbers to gain a solid mass and only then collect them. A cucumber is not a pumpkin, here such numbers do not go for nothing. If you leave even a couple of fruits on the plant, then the plant regards this as an opportunity to grow a fruit containing seeds, so it turns off the transfer of nutrition to other fruits and begins to intensively feed those that you left. Thus, having received a couple of large cucumbers, you will lose a significantly larger crop.
The same thing happens when suddenly there is a desire to leave one cucumber for seeds. So, if you have already decided to collect seeds from a variety, then leave the fruit for this at the very end, when you do not plan to collect more harvest.
As for harvesting in general, then produce it every other day and at least, and if you like small cucumbers, then you can harvest at least every day.
So, we have listed the most basic and most common mistakes of gardeners, but there may well be those that we have not touched on. For example, mistakes associated with the choice of a cucumber variety and its unsuitability for cultivation in a particular region, mistakes with sowing seeds for seedlings and planting seedlings in the ground, again based on the specific conditions of your climate.
If you have made certain mistakes, then do not be upset, they are possible even with real professionals. Remember that you can always fix everything, and by making a mistake, you can gain invaluable experience and not repeat it again. If you have any questions, then ask them in the comments, we will definitely answer.