Tulips. Growing From A To Z. Planting, Feeding, Reproduction, Pruning. Photo

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Tulips. Growing From A To Z. Planting, Feeding, Reproduction, Pruning. Photo
Tulips. Growing From A To Z. Planting, Feeding, Reproduction, Pruning. Photo

Video: Tulips. Growing From A To Z. Planting, Feeding, Reproduction, Pruning. Photo

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Video: Tulips growing timelapse 2023, January
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Tulip fever, which began in Holland half a millennium ago and took over the whole world, continues today. There is not a single grower or gardener who would not dream of expanding his collection of tulip varieties and who would not be familiar with this special bulbous star. Tulips do not need an introduction, but the nuances of this in their cultivation does not diminish, as well as the options for their use in decorating a garden.

Growing tulips
Growing tulips

Content

  • Description of tulips
  • Using tulips in garden decoration
  • Selection of partners for tulips
  • Conditions necessary for tulips
  • Planting tulips
  • Tulips humidity and watering requirements
  • Top dressing for tulips
  • Tulip cuttings
  • Additional care for tulips
  • Monitoring the development of tulips
  • Digging tulips and preserving outside the soil
  • Wintering tulips
  • Pests and diseases of tulips
  • Propagation of tulips

A simple portrait of a difficult tulip

Representing the Liliaceae family, tulips are, without exaggeration, the most popular and widespread bulbs. They can also be called the most diverse, because the number of varieties and varieties of tulips is measured not in hundreds, but in tens of thousands, and the choice in shape, structure, and color of flowers increases from year to year. And although it is not easy to understand the classification of tulips, it is impossible to confuse tulips with other bulbs.

Representatives of the Tulip genus are bulbous perennials with a modified stem. All plant organs are laid in a pear-shaped or ovoid bulb. The generations of the bulbs change annually: during the growing season, young bulbs are laid, and the faded ones die off. The buds of the peduncles and flowers develop in the bulbs during the summer dormant period. In the fall, the bulbs take root, the process of planting a peduncle is completed, and after wintering, active growth and flowering occurs, and the cycle repeats again.

The development of tulips is so rapid that one cannot help but be surprised at the shortened, but amazingly active vegetation of this bulbous. Tulips quickly develop not only leaves and peduncles, but also a bulb, roots, daughter bulbs. On average, in regions with severe winters, the entire growing season of tulips spans only 3 months from leaf formation to flowering and replacement bulbs. During a period of such active development, both conditions and care are very important for tulips, which must compensate for any vagaries of the weather.

Tulip bulbs consist of a bottom and one to six storage scales covered with protective integumentary scales. The bulbs produce underground stolons, leaves and strong, succulent flower stalks. Each bulb hides buds embedded in it, from which new bulbs are formed - the central (replacement bulb), daughter bulbs (from the buds hidden in the sinuses of storing scales) and children developing in the axils of the covering scales.

The height of tulip peduncles ranges from less than 30 cm to more than half a meter. Leaves are fleshy, grasping the stem, elongated-oval, whole-edged, rather stiff, shrinking from the lower leaf to the uppermost. Up to 5 leaves sit on one stem, although tulips are often limited to only two leaves.

Tulips most often produce single flowers, in the structure of which five concentric circles can be distinguished, obeying three-ray or triangular symmetry. They are easily recognized by the six-member perianth: the flower always consists of six petals or equal to them six in number of lobes in simple tulips. Distinctive features of tulips are also six stamens located in two circles, and a three-lobed stigma of the pistil. The flowers themselves in this bulbous are strikingly diverse - from simple to double, goblet, lily-colored, cupped, oval and even star-shaped - to parrot and fantasy forms.

Colors differ by no less variety. Tulips are solid and multi-colored, pastel and bright, exotic and classic. White, pink, red, purple, yellow, orange are not the only options. The color range of tulips includes blue and blue, and shades of green, and natural paints closest to black.

The flowering period of tulips starts with the first early varieties in April and ends only in June. Despite the extremely limited flowering period of each individual plant, the selection of tulip varieties allows you to stretch the parade of this bulbous star for almost 3 months. After flowering, dense fruit pods ripen.

The variety of tulips is simply unimaginable. More than 100 natural species, crossing of which gave rise to more than 17 thousand registered varieties, which in turn are divided into classes, groups, subclasses, categories … Most tulips are derived from botanical plant species from the Near East, Central Asia and Europe. Traditionally, Dutch tulips dominate the market, but dozens of new varieties appear almost every year in many garden centers around the world.

The only correct criterion for choosing tulips is buying plants in accordance with your tastes and preferences, the choice is primarily based on aesthetic characteristics. After all, tulips really allow everyone to choose plants to their liking, making the collection as individual and bright as possible.

Growing tulips
Growing tulips

Using tulips in garden decoration

Tulips are spring-blooming stars that have long become indispensable for decorating any garden. Collect them, use them as small seasonal accents, or turn them into the main star of the spring garden. And they grow only in groups, since it is easy for single plants to get lost.

Tulips are placed in islands, spots, "pockets" with strict form. If the plants are planted separately, they are placed so that later it is easy to fill the area with annual stars, most often with strict contours of the tulip area. On flower beds and in complex compositions, planting with strict forms or lines is inferior in popularity to the placement of these bulbous irregular groups - from small "spots" of 5-7 bulbs to larger islets.

Tulips in the garden can be used:

  • on flower beds and ceremonial flower beds;
  • in discounts;
  • in spring spots and islets on the lawn, under shrubs and trees;
  • in borders and ribbon flower beds;
  • in flower beds of annuals;
  • in rock gardens and rockeries;
  • in potted gardens, containers, flower girls both in the garden and on balconies, terraces, in room culture.

Tulips are a valuable cut crop. They are driven out especially for the holidays and early spring, used for complex arrangements and simple bouquets.

Selection of partners for tulips

The status of one of the most common plants leaves its mark on the choice of partners: these bulbous are luxurious blooming spring accents, medium-sized, but stunningly beautiful stars that should always remain in the foreground. For tulips, there is no need to select partners to reveal their beauty, they go well with garden plants that can grow in conditions similar to them - from shrubs and woody to herbaceous perennials, other bulbous and tuberous plants, annuals and seasonal stars. If tulips are introduced to flower beds, then they are combined with plants that can fill the voids and then hide their wilting greens.

The best partners for tulips from among herbaceous perennials are hosts, phloxes, astilbe, garden geraniums, daylilies, cuffs, tenacious, arabis, obrieta. Among spring flowering plants, tulips are most often combined with daffodils, forget-me-nots, violets, muscari and primroses, but tulips with hyacinths, anemones, hellebores are no worse offening each other's beauty.

Species and varietal tulips - plants are different both in the degree of decorativeness, size, variability, color of flowers, and in their endurance and unpretentiousness. Species tulips, with rare exceptions, are plants that can be planted and forgotten. Their agricultural technology is much simpler and deserves separate consideration. Varietal tulips are less persistent, reveal the beauty of flowering most fully during annual digging, and are vulnerable to diseases and pests. Growing varietal tulips is not such a difficult task. But in caring for a plant there are many important nuances that should never be forgotten.

Conditions necessary for tulips

Bulbous favorites can be called undemanding plants only conditionally: tulips bloom and grow only in favorable conditions, for them both lighting and soil characteristics are important.

Tulips are light-loving crops that are planted in sunny places or in diffuse bright lighting. The later the tulip variety blooms, the better it tolerates light shading, but for varietal tulips, a sunny location is still more preferable. Tulips are not afraid of the neighborhood of large shrubs or trees, if the leaves of the latter bloom late and during flowering bulbs do not suffer from strong shading.

For tulips, only high-quality, deeply worked garden soils are suitable. This bulbous plant is grown in sandy loam and loam, loose, drained, light and nutritious soils. The reaction of the soil for tulips is very important: this bulbous does not tolerate an acidic environment, it is planted only in neutral or slightly alkaline soils. Before planting, the soil is adjusted to optimal texture and composition. Tulips cannot stand fresh organic matter.

Areas for growing tulips should be level or slightly sloped, warm, well heated. Plants are better protected not only from the risk of stagnant water, but also from drafts or winds.

When choosing a place for growing tulips, it should be borne in mind that when grown for five years in a row in the same place, the risks of plant infection with pests and diseases increase. Tulips are not planted after daffodils, lilies and other bulbs, often affected by the same viruses and diseases.

Late tulip (Tulipa tarda)
Late tulip (Tulipa tarda)

Planting tulips

It is better to prepare for planting tulips in advance. Any organic fertilizers, except for compost and humus, should be applied to the soil only a few years before planting, preferably under the previous crop. Preplant soil improvement comes down to several procedures:

  • deep digging (at least 30 cm, with a selection of weed roots);
  • correction of the composition of sandy and clay soils;
  • the introduction of humus or compost (2 buckets per square meter), wood ash (1 glass per square meter) and mineral fertilizers.

When improving the soil, a standard (40-60 g) portion of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is introduced into it. Superphosphate can be poured into the bottom of the planting pits or mixed with soil. It is better to apply nitrogen fertilizers just before planting. If mineral fertilizers were not added to the soil in advance, then before planting, full mineral fertilizers are used in a proportion of 100 g per square meter of soil.

The preparation of the landing site is carried out at least a month before the tulips are planted. If the risk of water stagnation is increased on the site or the groundwater is high, then a high drainage layer must be laid under the entire bed.

Tulips are planted from the third decade of August to the first decade of October. September is traditionally called the "tulip" month, but if the weather is favorable, then the time for planting tulips can be extended. For the middle lane, you can focus on the temperature: tulips are planted when the soil temperature drops to 10 degrees Celsius at a depth of 10 cm.Late planting dates are determined so that the bulb has 20-30 days before stable frost for their high-quality rooting.

All bulbs should be carefully re-inspected prior to planting in the soil. Any deviations in appearance, signs of lesions or decay are the basis for culling. Particular attention should be paid to traces of viral lesions and bulb mites.

It is advisable to plant bulbs sorted by size separately, without mixing them together. Large and small bulbs are planted together only if they are not planned to be dug up annually.

The bulbs are also treated with fungicide solutions before planting (the classic version is a solution of potassium permanganate with a concentration of 0.5%). Etching is carried out for half an hour or an hour. The bulbs are planted without drying.

Tulips are planted depending on how large the group will be and what is the role of tulips in flower beds. If tulips are planted in a small spot or island, then planting can be carried out in a large common shallow planting hole. When landing on a large area, planting is carried out in trenches. The depth of the pits or trenches for planting tulips is about 20 cm.

The distance between the bulbs when planting tulips depends on both their size and whether they plan to dig up the plants annually. If tulips are constantly planted and dug up, then the plants can be placed compacted to achieve a decorative effect or at an optimal density of 10-15 cm.When planting with a more rare digging, the minimum distance between large bulbs is about 20 cm.Children are planted at a distance of 5- 15 cm. The optimum planting density is 50 large and up to 100 small tulip bulbs for each square meter of planting.

If the tulip bulbs are the same size, then planting is carried out in one step. If large and small bulbs are planted on the same site, then at the beginning, larger bulbs are installed (for planting), slightly cover them with earth, and then smaller bulbs are laid out between them. There can be 2 or 3 such "floors" when planting tulips.

Tulip bulbs are always installed strictly horizontally, bottom down. Planting depths range from 10 to 15 cm, but it is always best to use a universal rule and leave the distance between the bottom of the bulb and the soil surface at 3 bulb heights on light and loose soils and 2 bulb heights for heavy and dense soils. Such a landmark will allow you to find the optimal depth individually for each tulip. The maximum depth for tulips is limited to 20 cm. Small bulbs can be sown, large and medium bulbs are always set individually. When planting tulips, you need to act carefully and minimize pressure on your bulb: indentation, application of force, especially after pickling in fungicide solutions, leads to injury to the root buds and even the bottom of the bulb. Tulips are neatly laideffortlessly fill the planting pits with soil and compact it by watering, rather than tamping.

After planting for winter, tulips are prepared in the same way as plants that have not been dug out of the soil, according to general rules.

Planting tulips in containers and various containers is carried out at the same time as in the soil. Plants are planted in autumn in a high-quality, loose, nutritious substrate at an optimal depth, most often in tiers with smaller bulbous crops. Drainage is required. Bulbs in containers are stored in a cold and dark room or with careful shelter in the garden. Expose to light and heat containers only after the first shoots appear.

Planting tulip bulbs
Planting tulip bulbs

Tulips humidity and watering requirements

Like all bulbous tulips, tulips cannot stand dampness and waterlogging. But it is difficult to call them drought-resistant crops. During the active period of development and ripening of the bulb, tulips need stable light soil moisture, because their extremely rapid development, the structural features of the root system require a large supply of moisture and really regular watering.

In the spring, before the beginning of budding, watering for the plant is carried out only in dry weather. Systemic watering for tulips begins only from the budding stage. The classic frequency for a tulip is 1 plentiful watering per week (from 10 to 40 liters of water per square meter of planting), but you always need to focus on the condition of the soil at the depth of the roots. Watering is completed not immediately after flowering, but two weeks later, so that the plants do not experience problems with access to moisture during the formation of the replacement bulb.

When watering tulips, you should make sure not to soak the leaves of the plant, to water in the aisles. Tulips are watered in the early morning or evening according to standard rules, not cold water.

Top dressing for tulips

It is impossible to grow varietal tulips without dressing. To admire the magnificent flowers that fully reveal the beauty of each variety, it is necessary to create conditions in which the plants will not lack nutrients. But at the same time, tulips do not like an excess of fertilizers, accumulation of salts in the soil. Systemic, but moderate procedures help to find the “golden mean” in feeding for these bulbous plants.

Tulips prefer easily digestible fertilizers dissolved in water. It is possible to scatter mineral fertilizers over the soil, but only when combined with abundant watering and eliminating the risk of any fertilizer particles getting on the leaves, which must be dry, so you need to work very carefully).

Top dressing for tulips is applied several times per season:

In early spring

The first dressing for tulips is carried out as early as possible, applying fertilizer in the snow or immediately after it has melted. For early spring feeding, use a halved portion of complete mineral fertilizers (15-30 g per square meter of planting). Instead of universal fertilizers, you can use special mixtures for bulbous or tulips, a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers in a ratio of 2: 2: 1 in an amount of 40-45 g.

At the stage of budding

The second dressing for tulips is applied at the stage of flower stem and bud formation, supporting their normal development. For this top dressing, you can use only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (25-35 g) or a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers with a different ratio - 1: 2: 2.

After flowering

This dressing is carried out to support the development of the daughter bulb and to optimally ripen the bulbs for the winter. It is advisable to carry out top dressing exactly one week after the plants have faded, but it can also be applied at the peak or at the end of flowering. For the third top dressing, only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used in the amount of 30-35 g for each square meter of soil.

For small tulips and baby bulbs in growing, it is better to limit yourself to just two dressings - in the spring and at the budding stage.

Tulips prefer ammonium nitrate, double superphosphate and potassium nitrate, complex preparations for bulbous plants, containing not only macro-, but also microelements (boron, zinc are especially important for tulips).

Tulips, like many other bulbs, themselves signal inappropriate feeding and nutritional needs. All three macronutrients are equally important for these bulbs. Therefore, it is impossible to reduce or exclude nitrogen to obtain better flowering in these bulbous plants. With a lack of nitrogen in tulips, they become smaller, become narrower and droop, leaf plates lose their elasticity, flower stalks turn red, and the process of bulb replacement is disrupted. With a lack of potassium or phosphorus, tulips also signal this with their leaves, along the edges of which a bluish color appears, flowering and root system suffer. If you take timely measures and carry out additional feeding, you can prevent these problems in the development of plants and prevent the lack of certain nutrients from affecting flowering and reproduction.

Sprouted tulip bulbs
Sprouted tulip bulbs

Tulip cuttings

Tulips develop rapidly, but with the end of flowering they also quickly lose their decorative effect. Fading yellow foliage will not decorate any composition, even in a natural style. But, like all bulbs, the leaves of tulips should not be cut off; they cannot be removed until they die off independently, otherwise the process of storing nutrients and ripening of bulbs will be disrupted.

In the cultivation of varietal tulips, limitation of fruiting plays a very important role. The formation of a seed capsule in tulips most often leads to the fact that a full-fledged replacement bulb is not formed, the plant "breaks up" into a nest of very small bulbs that can fully bloom only after a few years. So that the tulips do not become smaller, the varieties should not be allowed to bear fruit, timely removing the wilted flowers after the petals begin to wither.

Pruning flowers from a tulip is not as easy as it seems:

Cut for bouquets

It is carried out in the early morning, in a state of tightly closed buds, cutting off the stem at an angle. For bouquets, it is preferable to cut the buds that have just begun to stain. The tulips are kept cool and partial shade, the cuts are refreshed under water before placing the plants in the water.

Cutting withered flowers

It is better to carry out it immediately after the petals begin to wither and without waiting for complete withering. Unlike cutting for bouquets, it is better not to cut off withered flowers with a sharp knife, but carefully pick them off with your hands.

Decapitation

Removing the buds and preventing tulips from blooming allows small bulbs or rare varieties to grow more efficiently by stimulating root and daughter bulbs to grow. It is impossible to remove flowers too early: decapitation is carried out a few days after the opening of the bud.

For any cut of peduncles, leaves should not be removed. At least two leaves should remain on the stem for full maturation of the bulbs and the establishment of a flower bud.

Additional care for tulips

Important components of tulip care include the following procedures:

Loosening the soil

Starting from the first loosening procedures after the snow melts and the appearance of the first shoots to the procedures after each abundant watering or rain, regular loosening allows you to maintain an optimal environment for tulips, to maintain the water and air permeability of the soil. For tulips, the formation of a soil crust should not be allowed, but the loosening itself must be carried out carefully, trying not to work in the immediate vicinity of the bulb.

Weeding tulips

The structural features of tulips require constant weed control. After all, they do not create enough leaves to suppress weeds or hide the empty soil between plants. Weeds need to be weeded often, destroying them at a young age, combining weeding with a loosening procedure. For large plantings, special herbicides can be used, but it is better to limit yourself to conventional mechanical weeding.

Monitoring the development of tulips

Tulips need attention, and it doesn't always have to show up in standard procedures. These bulbs should be monitored for the first signs of a developmental disorder, health problems, or uncomfortable conditions. Regular inspection of leaves, flowers, peduncles will prevent any troubles at the earliest stage.

The most important procedure in monitoring tulip plantings is the spring one. After the plants begin to actively develop, they need to be monitored. Usually, the first assessment is done as soon as the soil warms up and the first shoots appear, noting signs of growth retardation and removing plants that do not germinate. At the slightest signs of damage to plants by diseases, such specimens are immediately destroyed and removed not only together with the roots, but also together with a fairly large earthy clod. After removing diseased tulips, the soil is treated with a fungicide, at least with a solution of simple potassium permanganate to prevent the spread of diseases.

Inspections continue throughout the active growing season and flowering. Specimens affected by viruses and diseases are carefully removed, trying not to damage neighboring plants. A particularly careful assessment is always done after flowering. But if you collect tulips and carefully control their varietal affiliation, then varietal cleaning should be carried out in the midst of flowering, noting dubious specimens and impurities, in order to then separate the plants and restore varietal purity.

Any parts of tulips dug out due to suspicion of infection, as well as dry parts of plants, are not sent to compost, but destroyed.

Pruning tulip stems and leaves
Pruning tulip stems and leaves

Digging tulips and preserving outside the soil

Any varietal tulips allow you to get "guaranteed" luxurious flowering only with annual digging. Varieties with unusual colors and flower shapes are especially capricious. Older varieties of tulips, like plants with "normal" flowers, can be grown not annually, but a little more rarely. But all the same, less often than once every 2-4 years, it is not advisable to dig up tulips. If tulips are not planned to be dug up in the summer, then feeding and planting depth are of particular importance for them.

Digging tulips is carried out when their leaves begin to turn yellow, but the tulips have not completely disappeared yet. Usually, the simplest digging guidelines are:

  • elasticity of the stem (it becomes soft and wraps around the finger);
  • the color of the bulbs themselves (scales) becomes light brown).

But it is quite possible to be guided by the beginning of the yellowing of the foliage. Early digging is dangerous, because the bulbs are not mature enough and will be worse stored, bloom, and multiply. Late digging is complicated by the fact that the search for bulbs will turn into a lottery: small bulbs in the nests will “crumble” or deepen. The traditional dates for digging are the third decade of June and the first decade of July.

Tulips are carefully dug out, especially those plants whose flowers have been crushed or specimens that have not released peduncles at all, which can be considered a signal either to "pull" into the ground or to grind them. It is advisable to dig up tulips with a large supply of soil deep in order to eliminate the risk of damaging even the smallest bulbs. Digging with the analysis of groups, varieties (at least with a division into early, middle and late tulips) will simplify the process of sorting them.

The dug up tulips are scattered into boxes or containers in one or two layers to dry in the shade in a ventilated, cool place. After 1-2 days, they are carefully freed from the soil and cleaned of the remnants of roots, old leaves, scales, and unresolved nests are separated. Before sending for storage, it is advisable to pickle tulips in a fungicide solution as well as before planting.

Sorting tulips is a must when growing varieties. Tulips must be grouped not only by the variety name, color palette and other flowering characteristics, but also by the size of the bulbs. Usually there are six analyzes of tulips by the diameter of the bulb: extra-sized bulbs (from 4 cm), the first analysis (3.5-4 cm), the second analysis (3-3.5 cm), the third analysis (2.5-3, 0 cm), children of the first category (from 1.5 to 2.5 cm) and children of the second category (up to 1.5 cm). But you can use a simplified system of large (from 2.5 cm) and small (less than 2.5 cm) bulbs. If the collection is large, it is better to make your own template to measure the diameter of the bulbs.

Store tulips in boxes or ventilated boxes in a cool, dark place with good ventilation. It is believed that temperature is almost not important for tulips, but in fact, controlling the storage temperature allows you to get much better flowering and ripening. Tulips should be stored at an air temperature of 23-25 ​​degrees for a month, then for several weeks, in August, the temperature is lowered to 20 degrees, and before planting in September, the bulbs are kept cool at about 16 degrees.

During the entire storage period outside the soil, the bulbs should be regularly examined and any suspicious or diseased specimens should be discarded.

Wintering tulips

Tulips belong to frost-resistant bulbous plants. They do not need protection for the winter, but only with a sufficient level of snow. To protect against temperature changes, unstable conditions, snowless periods, it is better to mulch the plantings.

It is better to use compost, peat, sawdust, straw or humus as mulch for tulips. The optimal height of the shelter is from 5-8 to 10-15 cm. A mulching layer is created only after stable night frosts are established, the soil will begin to freeze.

Removing the mulch in the spring is done only after the snow melts and if leaves or straw were used (organic matter is left in the garden bed and embedded in the soil when loosening).

Storage of tulip bulbs before planting in the ground
Storage of tulip bulbs before planting in the ground

Pests and diseases of tulips

Tulips are the most popular, but far from the most hardy garden bulbs. And for varietal plants, diseases are considered the main cause of bulb loss and plant death. True, it should be borne in mind that almost always diseases are the result of improper selection of conditions or care that does not correspond to the characteristics of the plant, including insufficient vigilance. If you follow the rules of planting and storage, watering and feeding on time, inspecting the bulbs and plants, then the risk of these problems will be minimal.

Very often tulips suffer from fusarium (it manifests itself in yellowing and drying of leaves and peduncles, browning and drying of bulbs, a weak grayish bloom), gray rot (usually on heavy soils, in wet weather it covers the aerial parts of tulips like a fire), rhizoctonia diseases and rhizoctonia (orange-brown spots and stripes).

Also found on tulips:

  • penicillosis (scales turn yellow, buds and peduncles rot);
  • bacteriosis (bulbs rot and turn brown);
  • variegation (spots and stripes on the leaves, giving the plant originality, but leading to a slowdown in metabolism, developmental delay, rapid yellowing of greenery);
  • August disease or necrotic spotting (depressed spots on the bulbs, brown cracking dry streaks on the leaves);
  • root rot (almost invisible or, if severely spread, leads to dwarfism, loss of decorativeness);
  • botrythia rot (dull flowers, soft and dark bulbs) and other types of rot.

If the terms of digging, distilling plants are violated, other problems can be observed - drooping of peduncles, blind buds, calcareous diseases, gum removal, etc.

When tulips are affected by viruses and fungal diseases, the fight is carried out with highly specialized or systemic fungicides, repeated processing and dressing of the bulbs. But nevertheless, the most effective method of control remains the destruction of infected specimens with preventive treatments of the remaining plants.

Pests for tulips are far from uncommon. This plant can be affected not only by root pests - click beetles, bear, onion ticks, greenhouse aphids, onion hoverflies, wireworms, purple jay, tulips and slugs with snails love. It is easy to determine damage by soil pests: the leaves on the plant turn yellow and dry out. Fighting insects is quite difficult. Cutting out damaged parts of the bulb, dressing in insecticides, isolating plants from the rest of the collection can save the plants. However, it is usually easier and less risky to destroy damaged bulbs and replace them with new ones.

Propagation of tulips

Vegetative methods are essential for the propagation of all tulips. The easiest option is to separate the daughter bulbs and plant them as independent plants. Daughter bulbs are formed in tulips annually, at the base of the scales. When transplanting, the nests are divided and all plants are used as independent ones.

The seed method is used only for plant breeding and breeding of new varieties, mainly for species of wild-growing tulips; private gardeners use it very rarely. Seedlings of tulips bloom only 4, or even 6-7 years after sowing. For the first few years, the plants are grown in containers until at least a small bulb is formed, suitable for classical planting in the ground.

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