Table of contents:
- Terms of planting clematis in the suburbs
- Choosing a place for clematis
- The choice of varieties of clematis for the Moscow region
- Shelter of clematis for the winter
Beginners often think that the cultivation of clematis is available only to skilled flower growers, moreover, somewhere in the south or in the Baltic States. Fortunately, this is not the case. Even in the most "uncomfortable" regions of the Non-Black Earth Region, North-West Russia, the Urals and Siberia, enthusiasts collect wonderful collections of clematis, test new varieties and new methods of growing them.
For several years now, on my site near Naro-Fominsk - the coldest place in the Moscow region - I have been dealing with clematis. Our conditions are far from heavenly. And yet, every summer clematis delights me with abundant and long flowering.
Terms of planting clematis in the suburbs
A lot of controversy among lovers of clematis raises the question of the timing of planting. Through long experience I was convinced that for the Moscow region the most favorable time for this is late autumn. It is then that clematis is least vulnerable. The plant went into a dormant state and prepared for winter.
If the planting of clematis for some reason is postponed until the spring, I do it until the buds start to grow or just start to swell. This is late April - early May.
In extreme cases, clematis can be transplanted in the summer, after waiting for the lignification of the shoots. In this case, I cut off the regrown shoots. In addition, during a spring-summer transplant, I do not fill the landing hole to the brim, but leave it 5-10 cm undershot. And I fill it gradually, as the shoots lignify.
Choosing a place for clematis
In nature, clematis lives in the undergrowth. Therefore, he has rather peculiar habits: the roots need cool and moist soil, and the leaves and flowers need the sun. As an underbrush plant, it is not so afraid of competition from the roots of other plants. That's why I hit the liana with tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocuses. In spring, at the time of flowering bulbous, clematis is almost invisible. But time passes, and early spring bloom is passed on to them. These vines feel great near peonies, but there should be at least 2-5 m to the tree trunk.
For clematis, humus-rich, fertile sandy loam or loamy soils with a slightly acidic reaction (pH = 5.6-6.5) are preferable. They suffer greatly from soaking in areas with a close occurrence of subsoil waters. In waterlogged soils, clematis does not have enough air, the plants die.
Over the years, there have been disagreements for the sites. So on my site, located in the floodplain of a small river, at one time the soil sagged and chomped. The most reliable way to drain excess water is by installing ditches and drainage. But you can plant clematis on high ridges. However, in winter, such landings require more reliable shelter. In any case, at the bottom of the landing pit, it is advisable to arrange drainage from gravel or broken brick (at least 25 cm).
The choice of varieties of clematis for the Moscow region
Beginners often think that in areas with a "non-mild" climate, only clematis varieties and hybrids that bloom profusely on the shoots of the current year (Jackmani, Vititsella, Integrifolia groups) succeed. Indeed, in the Moscow region, the varieties Anastasia Anisimova, Hagley Hybrid, Gypsy Queen, Golden Jubilee, Ville de Lyon, Cosmic Melody, Victory Salute, Blue Flame have proven themselves perfectly. Polish Varshavyanka, Madame Baron Vilar, Victoria, Tuchka, Nikolay Rubtsov, Mephistopheles, etc. Before sheltering for the winter, these clematis cut off all the shoots to the first leaf (20-30 cm) or to the soil level. Hilling the bush with dry soil or peat (plus snow in winter) will reliably protect the buds from freezing.
Beginners are more careful about clematis of the Patens groups. Florida and Lanuginoza. And in vain! After all, they bloom twice: the first time - a month before the clematis of the Jackmani, Vititsella and Integrifolia groups, and the second - from late summer to late autumn. In addition, they have graceful flowers with unusual colorful accents. How much joy will bring exquisite Gladstone or solemnly white Joan of Arc, graphic Marcel Moser and a lotus-like soft pink Fair Rosamund on a warm Indian summer day!
Shelter of clematis for the winter
Since the first flowering of clematis of these groups occurs on last year's lashes, and the second on newly grown ones, their shelter for the winter requires a little trick. Before the onset of constant frosts, I shorten the stems to 1 m, removing weak and broken ones. I mulch the base of the bush with dry earth or peat. I remove the whips from the support, fold them in a ring and lay them around the bush. The simplest and most affordable shelter for clematis is an inverted fruit crate. I put a dry leaf or spruce branches under it, and cover the bottom of the box, which now serves as a kind of roof, with plastic wrap or roofing felt. In winters with little snow, I additionally shovel snow from above.
It is important to cover well, but it is equally important to take the cover off on time and correctly in the spring. First, I remove the film or roofing material, the box, then dry leaves or needles, and only then the layer of mulch. This layer, 5-7 cm high, remains on clematis for the longest time and protects swollen buds from spring temperature drops and bright sunlight. There is a danger that the clematis buds will rush to grow ahead of time, until the soil in the depths has warmed up and the roots are not able to work well. As a result, the plant may die.
It also happens: due to the alternation of thaws and late frosts, a layer of ice forms on the soil. Without mulch, this ice can break the roots and damage the base of the clematis bush. Such damaged plants, if they do not die at all, then grow back with a delay of 2-4 weeks, which does not affect flowering in the best way. Protects against frost and deep planting of clematis, when the center of tillering is located at a depth of at least 10-15 cm.
Author: V. Zorina