Vegetative Propagation Of Maiden Grapes. Cuttings, Layering, Offspring. Photo

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Vegetative Propagation Of Maiden Grapes. Cuttings, Layering, Offspring. Photo
Vegetative Propagation Of Maiden Grapes. Cuttings, Layering, Offspring. Photo

Video: Vegetative Propagation Of Maiden Grapes. Cuttings, Layering, Offspring. Photo

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Video: Do You Know How Easy and Simple it is to ROOT Grape Vines CUTTINGS. 2023, January
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The girlish grape, through the efforts of modern designers, is finally changing the reputation of a boring, aggressive invader to the status of super-decorative, versatile and capable of solving even the most difficult problems, vines. One of the undoubted advantages of maiden grapes is its simplicity. This plant, it would seem, grows by itself and in almost any conditions. But do not be mistaken, as if it is worth "sticking" a stalk or layering - and after a short time the grapes will effectively drape vertical planes. Reproduction of maiden grapes is far from easy and also requires adherence to the rules. And if you break them, then unpleasant surprises cannot be avoided.

Maiden grape (Parthenocissus)
Maiden grape (Parthenocissus)

Content:

  • Maiden grape vegetative propagation methods
  • Cutting of maiden grapes
  • Layers of maiden grapes
  • Side offspring
  • Patience is the key to success

Maiden grape vegetative propagation methods

Maiden grapes (the true botanical name of the plant Parthenocissus did not take root in our country) is one of the most accessible plants. A little effort and attention - and with the help of this amazing vine, you will be able to drape walls, hide unsightly buildings, create spectacular screens and facades, play with green screens and optical illusions, make dreams of green tunnels come true and solve many other landscape tasks that are far from are exhausted only by the vertical plane.

You can get planting material anywhere: girlish grapes are still actively used in urban landscaping and parks, and these plants are so powerful that no one will regret the cutting or layering for you. This plant can also be obtained from seeds, but vegetative methods can achieve the desired faster and easier.

New plants using vegetative propagation can be obtained:

  1. From layering.
  2. Separating side shoots or daughter plants.
  3. By cuttings.

In fact, all that is needed for growing success is the planting material and your diligence. Reproduction of maiden grapes is a very simple task, but even such a hardy plant does not grow by itself and in any conditions. In this regard, even the most experienced growers are often mistaken about the possibilities of girlish grapes to grow and grow quickly anywhere. And for the first time, taking on the task of independently producing a magnificent triple or five-leaf grape, they face disappointment.

As with the reproduction of any garden plant, there is a vital minimum of effort that will have to be made. And although it is easy even for a beginner to propagate girlish grapes, both attentiveness and care are needed for success.

One of the main misconceptions that often lead to failures in the propagation of girlish grapes using vegetative methods is the generally accepted opinion that you can start breeding at any time except winter. For each of the breeding methods, there is a rather limited period when you can achieve success with minimal effort:

  • it is possible to cut girlish grapes only during May and June, when the vine is actively growing;
  • it is possible to fix the layers in the soil only in the middle of spring, and to separate the plants only at the beginning of autumn or next year in May;
  • it is possible to separate lateral plants and shoots only from May to September, but if you transplant in the summer, then the girl's grapes will have to be provided with literally tireless care.

Any summer propagation of maiden grapes requires maintaining a certain level of soil moisture, watering, which is usually not needed for adult plants. Without this, your seedlings will not be able to take root and survive.

Propagation of girlish grapes by cuttings
Propagation of girlish grapes by cuttings

Cutting of maiden grapes

The simplest and most productive, this method allows you to get a large number of seedlings from the minimum "starting" material. It is much easier to take a stalk than to separate the shoot with the rhizome, and dozens of cuttings are obtained from one cut off shoot.

This is not the most common method, but it also has another significant advantage: thanks to cuttings, you get stronger plants that are already adapted to the conditions in your area, which do not need to go through the adaptation process when changing the environment. Of course, this method is not the fastest, but it is the most productive.

Cuttings can be cut in spring, in May or in summer, in June. In maiden grapes, lignified cuttings from strong and not old shoots are used for cuttings, preferably two to three years old (most often last year's branches are chosen, but if grapes are cut in early summer, when lateral layers are already developing from nodes on last year's shoots, they are not separated, and leave, using, thus, and young shoots, and last year).

The easiest way to navigate is the thickness of the shoot: twigs about 0.5 cm thick (like a pencil) take root best. When choosing shoots, pay attention to how green and “fresh” the buds are, whether there are small outgrowths on the nodes, whether the bark is healthy.

For rooting, a cuttings with at least three healthy buds are sufficient (cuttings longer than 5 buds do not make sense to use). The standard length of cuttings is not 10-15 cm, as in shrubs, but 25-30 cm. But it is better to focus on the counting of buds, and not on a specific length. By cutting a shoot that is long enough, you can get a good number of quality cuttings. Slices are carried out at an angle of 45%, it is better if they are carried out from the lower bud, that is, with a bevel inside the shoot.

The percentage of rooting rate of maiden grape cuttings is higher, the faster you can plant the cuttings in the ground. It is advisable to cut the cuttings just before rooting, but if you are far from the garden, then it is better to place them in pots or boxes. If you cut the cuttings, but you do not have the opportunity to do planting in the soil, then store them in water or in wet sand.

Pretreatment is not necessary for maiden grape cuttings as such. But if possible, you can take measures that will speed up the rooting process:

  • put the cuttings in water for several hours;
  • treat the plants with a growth stimulant by immersing them in a solution according to the manufacturer's instructions.

The best option for rooting cuttings of girlish grapes is to plant them directly in the garden soil - in the beds or in a permanent place. The latter option is most often chosen for hedges, placing the cuttings at a distance of 1.5-2 m directly along the hedge line. But, in fact, this is the best option for any other method of use: when planting on seed beds, there is a high risk that the roots and shoots of the plant will not be easy to untangle, and the transfer will only slow down the already slow process of starting the active growth of shoots.

Maiden grapes are planted anywhere in the garden with suitable soil for it, making sure that in such a place direct sunlight will not fall on the cuttings. In shading, provided that the soil is sufficiently loose and of high quality, worked out soil, the cuttings will take root very quickly.

The hole is prepared according to all the rules for planting adult plants: compost, sand are added to the soil, if necessary, improve the composition - and other additives, drainage is laid at the bottom of the hole.

Cuttings are planted not quite usually: each cutting is buried 7-10 cm, slightly obliquely, and not vertically, immersing a lower node or two nodes (if there are more than 4 of them on the shoot) in spring cuttings and deepening the entire lignified part - in summer … After the cuttings are installed in the pits, they are carefully covered with a substrate and immediately abundant watering is carried out.

During periods of drought, to speed up rooting, cuttings of maiden grapes should be watered to maintain more stable conditions. Watering continues until the start of rapid growth and active development, but in the heat, they still carry out several of the same supporting procedures.

Rooting in separate containers for this plant is ineffective due to the rapid rate of root growth and the formation of a powerful root system, the need to provide plants with constant scrupulous care and, in fact, absolutely unnecessary trouble. But if you are not afraid of watering, then this option can be used as a full-fledged alternative to planting in the soil.

You can plant cuttings of maiden grapes in pots, boxes or other containers. During the first year, the plants are kept as shade-loving potted plants, they will require the same scrupulous care as any other potted plant. True, this is also the only grafting option that will allow you to abandon weeding.

With this method of rooting, you will have to think about wintering (grapes are frost-hardy, but you need to take care of mulching, insulation of the container, protection from the wind). It will be possible to transplant plants into the ground only next year - in spring or early autumn.

Some gardeners practice rooting girlish grape cuttings just in water, like indoor vines. But the roots formed in such an environment are not viable in the soil and after planting the plant will spend time and energy replacing them with real ones. In fact, you will waste all of your time and root the same stalk twice.

Rooting cuttings of maiden grapes
Rooting cuttings of maiden grapes

Layers of maiden grapes

Like all other garden vines, maiden grapes allow you to get full-fledged plants in a very simple way - by rooting long shoots in the soil by retraction. This is a time-saving method that requires minimal intervention and care, and at the same time allows you to somewhat speed up the process of vine development.

Getting layering from maiden grapes is no different from the traditional method. Long lashes are simply bent to the soil and slightly buried into the grooves by 2-5 cm, pinning to the ground with a bracket or a special hairpin. From above, the place of contact of the branch with the soil is covered with soil and slightly huddled.

The only thing that a girl's grape will need is directing the upper part of the shoot upward or laying the stem on dry mulch. If you want to get a larger number of plants, lay the shoot on the ground in waves, strengthening it in several places like a sinusoid.

After fixing in the ground, the place of "pinning" is watered abundantly, and then irrigated periodically during drought to speed up the rooting process in the nodes of the leaves. The independent plants obtained in this way can be planted both this year and the next, but only after the leaves appear, simply cutting off the shoot from the bush and digging it along with the root system that is just starting to form.

Maiden grape sapling
Maiden grape sapling

Side offspring

Maiden grapes very rarely develop in the form of vines with "main" trunks. This plant not only actively releases young shoots, but its shoots, when in contact with the soil, quickly root. Thus, the main vine is almost always surrounded by several daughter plants.

Such lateral processes can be separated by digging them out along the edges of the bushes, and transplanted as independent crops, treating the cuts and lesions on the roots with charcoal. When transplanting lateral processes, you need to carefully monitor that the root collar remains on the surface, and the soil does not dry out until active growth resumes.

Patience is the key to success

Whichever vegetative method you use, remember that maiden grapes will grow the root system in the first 2, and most often 3 years, and only then will its active growth begin in the aerial part. This is a unique plant, in which the roots must first reach a meter deep, fully formed for the active growth of shoots in length.

And during this entire period, one should not forget about girlish grapes: it will benefit from watering in a drought, and at least one top dressing with full mineral fertilizers per year, and mulching to prevent overheating of the roots. But the main thing is not to forget to fight the weeds around the plant, not letting them "jam" your vine, which will become a giant only after a few years.

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