Bean Treat. Peas. Care, Cultivation, Reproduction. A Photo

In the postwar years, vegetable peas were the main childish delicacy in our area. Having matured, I myself began to grow it. I try to follow the novelties of breeding and, taking into account the peculiarities of the culture, I try different agricultural techniques. Usually in the middle of summer, most vegetable peas disappear for most gardeners. I treat my grandchildren with their favorite delicacy all summer long: I sow peas of different varieties in several terms.

From the early ones I grow Alpha, Vera, Gloriosa, Early Gribovsky, from the mid-season ones - Perfection-65, Alexandra, Emerald, Sugar, Suga Baby, from the later ones - Zhegalova 112, Troika. Early ripening varieties of vegetable peas take 45-60 days from the moment of germination to technical ripeness, and 70 to biological. Mid-ripening ones suit, respectively, 10-20 days later, and late ones - another week and a half later. However, most varieties in the northern regions have a shorter growing season than in the south, and with a day length of less than 10 hours, peas may not bloom.

Peas are a very cold-resistant plant: varieties with brain seeds germinate at a temperature of +4 ° C, with smooth ones - +1 ° C, seedlings can withstand frosts down to -6 ° C. The optimum temperature for the growth of peas is 16-18 ° C. Therefore, without fear of cold weather, in the first five days of May I sow a plot of 1 sq. m variety Gloriosa, a week later I sow the same amount of Run, then Zhegalova 112, and the last, at the end of the month, Troika.

I grow the second wave of peas in beds freed from spinach, radish and watercress.

I place peas after potatoes, cabbage, onions and cucumbers, that is, crops under which the soil was well filled with humus and ash. For the autumn digging I bring in rotted manure (half a bucket / sq. M.), Superphosphate and potassium sulfate (30 g each). I don't add fresh manure, I also don't let peas over the peas, beans and beans, and I return it to the previous garden no earlier than three years later. I take into account that sweet peas are photophilous, so I give them an open, sunny place.

Before sowing, I immerse the seeds in water overnight. The peas damaged by bruchus float up, and I remove them, and the rest swell overnight. I sow in furrows 4-6 cm deep, the bottom of which I level and compact with the edge of the board, I close the seeds according to the scheme of 20-25 × 10 cm and mulch with humus. Although in early May there is enough moisture in the soil, I still water the garden bed: for seeds to germinate and plants grow quickly, the soil must be well moistened (although peas, keep in mind, do not grow well when groundwater is close).

I spend the first abundant watering before flowering, the second when the shoulder blades are filled with peas. If the weather is dry and warm for a long time, I pour water "without a schedule": peas do not tolerate prolonged drought, which should also be taken into account during repeated summer crops. The rest of the care is simple - loosening row spacings, removing weeds. However, you have to take care of protecting plantings from pests (root weevils attack seedlings, aphids appear en masse during budding, pea weevil - when beans ripen) and diseases (ascochitis, powdery mildew).

If there are few insects, I spray the peas with broths of dandelion, horse sorrel, marigolds. With a large number of pests, before the formation of beans, I use Karate and give a phosphorus-potassium supplement. With the development of diseases, I treat the crops with a 1% suspension of colloidal sulfur twice with a weekly interval. I harvest the peas as they ripen. In the morning it tastes better and more tender.