Stagonosporosis Is A Red Burn Of The Hippeastrum And Amaryllis. Red Rot. Control Measures, Treatment. Photo

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Stagonosporosis Is A Red Burn Of The Hippeastrum And Amaryllis. Red Rot. Control Measures, Treatment. Photo
Stagonosporosis Is A Red Burn Of The Hippeastrum And Amaryllis. Red Rot. Control Measures, Treatment. Photo

Video: Stagonosporosis Is A Red Burn Of The Hippeastrum And Amaryllis. Red Rot. Control Measures, Treatment. Photo

Video: Stagonosporosis Is A Red Burn Of The Hippeastrum And Amaryllis. Red Rot. Control Measures, Treatment. Photo
Video: Why it is important to plant amaryllis Hippeastrum bulbs the proper depth 2024, March
Anonim

One of the most dangerous diseases for indoor hippeastrum and their relatives is stagonosporosis. True, most gardeners are familiar with it under the name of a red burn. This disease very often leads to the death of the plant, because it not only strongly affects the tissue of the bulbs, but also spreads rapidly. You need to fight the disease quickly and radically.

Stagonosporosis, or Red Burn, or Red Rot on Amaryllis Leaves
Stagonosporosis, or Red Burn, or Red Rot on Amaryllis Leaves

Content:

  • Red rot amaryllis
  • Mindfulness is the best defense against red burns
  • Fight against stagonoporosis
  • What if you bought a stagonosporosis-infected bulb?

Red rot amaryllis

Stagonosporosis, red burn, or red rot is one of the most "highly specialized" diseases in indoor plants - damage to plants by stagonosporosis fungi, which threatens only Amaryllis, and even then not all. Most often, a red burn occurs on two types - hippeastrum and genuine amaryllis. But it is not uncommon for stagonosporosis to occur on eucharis, the magnificent Amazonian lily, and on clivia, with its delightfully large inflorescences. And today, imported varieties of other representatives of this family are also increasingly affected.

It is very difficult not to recognize this disease. After all, the name itself - "red burn" - directly indicates its main distinguishing feature. Stagonosporosis manifests itself in the appearance of red-orange spots and narrow stripes. They seem to be scattered over the surface of the bulb and resemble paprika in color. They appear unevenly, but thanks to their bright color, they are easily recognizable, even if we are talking about very narrow stripes. But in order to see a red burn on the bulb, it must be outside the soil, and for already planted plants, a full diagnosis requires digging and examining the bulbs.

On the bulbs dug up or upon purchase, two more unchanging features of this disease can be noted:

  • the bulb has very weak roots;
  • scales peel off, dry constantly.

But other signs are much more obvious and will tell you that the bulb is infected if you have already planted it and the plant is developing or blooming:

  • leaves, peduncles and buds are covered with bright red strokes, not typical for the selected variety;
  • the plant is bad, develops slowly;
  • flowering is weak and deformed (loss of flowering quality is characteristic even at a very mild stage of damage);
  • the plant does not form new daughter bulbs, and the ones that have already appeared are very quickly affected by the fungus;
  • the more neglected the problem, the more the leaves are deformed, and the peduncles bend and droop.

If the disease is not identified in time, stagonosporosis progresses and the nature of the lesion changes: a black pycnidium crust appears on the red spots-strokes, from which spores spread around the plant, infecting neighbors and young leaves. And the red burn itself captures more and more parts of the plant and damages the bulbs more and more, resulting in tissue decay and the death of the entire bulb.

Stagonosporosis, or Red Burn, or Red Rot on Amaryllis Bulbs
Stagonosporosis, or Red Burn, or Red Rot on Amaryllis Bulbs

Mindfulness is the best defense against red burns

The most important (and dangerous) source and factor of stagonosporosis is an inattentive purchase. Most often, the plant becomes infected even before it gets into your home. And almost never manifestations of stagonosporosis are accidental or spontaneous. That is why it is so important not to ignore the opportunity to inspect the bulb with all care. Bulbs of hippeastrum and amaryllis, eucharis or clivia should be examined from all sides and the slightest signs of any red spots should be noticed. Healthy planting material is the main defining measure of the fight against a red burn.

The development and distribution of stagonosporosis is influenced not only by the "initial" infection of plants, but also by several very dangerous factors:

  • constant temperature fluctuations, especially its sharp drops;
  • too abundant watering, dampness of the soil, stagnant water in the pallets;
  • insufficient lighting;
  • bulbs injuries during planting or carrying;
  • lack of access to fresh air.

So, in this regard, attentiveness, this time, to care is the best means of prevention. If you take care of the plant correctly, maintain optimal moisture and check the degree of soil drying between waterings, drain water from the pallets on time and strictly follow the recommendations for a comfortable temperature range for the plant, stagonosporosis will not have a single chance.

Some flower growers recommend that all newly acquired bulbs be etched in a solution of a systemic fungicide for prophylaxis. And this is not a bad strategy.

Stagonosporosis, or Red burn, or Red rot on the bulb of Hippeastrum
Stagonosporosis, or Red burn, or Red rot on the bulb of Hippeastrum

Fight against stagonoporosis

This disease requires radical control methods. And it's not just an emergency digging of bulbs, because most often they wait with processing before the bulb enters the resting phase. In addition to urgently removing it from the substrate with washing and other traumatic procedures, you will have to cut the bulbs themselves, removing all damaged areas. And there are simply no other means of struggle.

Whether it is urgent to take out the bulb or wait is up to you, focusing primarily on flowering. If your flowering suffers greatly, then it is better not to delay the transplant and carry out this procedure urgently. If the plant blooms without much damage, then watering is sharply reduced for it in order to quickly transfer it to the resting phase, visible damage is treated with copper-containing preparations and preventive spraying with fungicides is carried out. And the complete processing is carried out later, during the excavation.

In order to cope with a red burn, it is necessary to methodically process the bulbs step by step:

  1. The bulbous plant is isolated from other members of this family and from the indoor collection in general to prevent the spread of volatile spores.
  2. If the bulb has not lost its leaves or you are carrying out an emergency transplant, all leaves on which there is at least one spot of stagonosporosis are cut off from the plant. The rest need to be trimmed, but it is better to completely remove all the greens.
  3. The plant is removed from the pot, freeing the bulb and roots from the soil. For complete cleaning, the plant is thoroughly washed.
  4. All old scales are completely removed from the bulbs, freeing the bulb itself for inspection and cleaning.
  5. Armed with a sharp knife, they cut out all spots and red stripes, removing even the slightest traces of them.
  6. They do the same with the roots: remove not only all damaged, but also dry, injured, sluggish or "doubtful" areas. If there is a stain on the bottom, clean it too.
  7. Trimmed onions without drying the sections are treated - they are etched with the main enemy of the causative agents of stagonosporosis - copper-containing preparations or fungicides.

Suitable for processing bulbs:

  • copper oxychloride or rubigan (drug concentration - 3-4 g per 1 l);
  • Bordeaux liquid with a concentration of 1%;
  • copper sulfate with a concentration of 0.5-1%;
  • sulfur preparations are also very effective, but it is undesirable to use them indoors and it is better to exclude them for indoor plants;
  • systemic fungicides (especially if they can be applied to the bulb not with an aqueous solution, but in the form of a powder); pay attention that their spectrum of action includes an anti-spore effect.

The processing of the bulbs must be carried out very carefully, with gloves, not allowing the drug to get on the skin. The duration of the procedure is from 7 minutes to half an hour (the more serious the lesion, the longer the treatment). But it is better to always focus on the directions for a specific drug. The preparations are never washed off the bulbs, leaving them as they are after pickling.

  • Preparing for planting is reduced to sprinkling cuts and cuts with chalk or crushed charcoal. It is more effective not just to sprinkle the slices, but to prepare gruel, "putty" from chalk and Bordeaux liquid, which is applied to damage.
  • The onion is dried for 3-7 days.
  • The bulbs are planted in fresh (new) soil and in as close containers as possible (the distance to the walls is no more than 1.5 cm). For planting the bulbs after etching with copper-containing agents, it is advisable to use a ready-made commercial substrate. But if you compose the soil yourself, you can use that too. Strictly observe the planting depth and try to leave at least half, and preferably most of the bulb above the soil, so that at the slightest sign of new red spots, processing can be carried out.
  • At first, protect the plants from direct sunlight, temperature extremes, waterlogging, watering very carefully. To prevent the reappearance of red spots, it is advisable to spray or water the plant with a systemic fungicide at a standard concentration for another month or longer.
  • All copper-containing preparations and gruel for treating incisions can be used before digging - lubricating damaged areas and stains in order to slow down the development of the disease and its spread until further measures are taken. If red spots reappear in areas that rise above the soil, they are treated without digging with the same means that were used for etching.

    Stagonosporosis, or Red burn, or Red rot on the bulb of Hippeastrum
    Stagonosporosis, or Red burn, or Red rot on the bulb of Hippeastrum

    What if you bought a stagonosporosis-infected bulb?

    If you bought the bulbs "in absentia" or simply could not notice the traces of a red burn, then do not rush to throw them away: you can still try to save them. First of all, you need to carefully examine the entire "batch" and be sure to isolate the damaged plants, and only then start processing. And there are several processing methods for this:

    1. Lubricate the stains with chalk or Bordeaux liquid gruel.
    2. Treat the stains with iodine and observe how the situation develops.
    3. Pickle the bulbs in copper preparations or fungicides.
    4. Remove stains and streaks and treat in the same way as for dug out affected bulbs.

    After processing, the bulbs must be dried for 3 to 4 days before planting (if planting is carried out early, then they are left under observation in conditions comfortable for storage). When planting, the bulbs are not buried in the soil, leaving most of them on the surface so that it is possible to check and inspect the bulbs and carry out repeated treatments for stagonosporosis.

    Seemingly healthy bulbs that were acquired along with the affected ones are also better preventively etched in a systemic fungicide.

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