Table of contents:
- Autumn transplantation of indoor plants is always urgent
- When is an autumn transplant needed?
- When will an autumn transplant be in the way?
- Features of autumn transplantation of indoor plants
Video: Can Indoor Plants Be Transplanted In Autumn? Features Of The Autumn Transplant. Photo
2024 Author: Ava Durham | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-17 00:23
Houseplants are usually transplanted in February-March or when they begin to grow actively. It is not forbidden to transplant at other times of the year, but the risks and consequences of changing containers and substrate are not the same. One of the most difficult periods for transplanting indoor pets is autumn. A change in lighting and temperatures already affects the condition of the plants, so the autumn transplant is the most dangerous. But you can transplant plants in the fall. True, it is worth doing this only when there is really an urgent need.
Content:
- Autumn transplantation of indoor plants is always urgent
- When is an autumn transplant needed?
- When will an autumn transplant be in the way?
- Features of autumn transplantation of indoor plants
Autumn transplantation of indoor plants is always urgent
Almost always, transplanting indoor plants in the fall is desirable only in one case - if they need an emergency change of the substrate or container. In the fall, if the transplantation and transshipment of indoor plants is carried out, then only when the condition of the plant, the rate of its growth or damage by pests and diseases literally force us to resort to this measure. An exception is bulbous and tuberous forcing or waking up from a dormant period and requiring transplantation before transferring to the heat of the culture.
Emergency transplanting regardless of the time of the year is always stressful and the last measure to be taken for plant problems. Before deciding to transplant indoor plants in the fall, you should first assess their condition and try any other available measures.
But you should not be afraid of an autumn transplant. If there is a need for this, it is better to carry out this procedure as quickly as possible, because the affected or weakened plant may not withstand wintering.
When is an autumn transplant needed?
In the fall, the same rules apply to indoor plants as at any other time, but only a serious reason can serve as an excuse for changing soil and capacity.
1. Extreme soil depletion or critical loss of its key characteristics. If the soil is too compacted, turned into an impenetrable lump, does not allow water and air to pass through, the plant has not been transplanted for so long that the soil has exhausted all its resources. In all cases, when external signs of depletion or unsuitability of the soil for further plant growth appear, an emergency transplant is needed.
2. Critical overgrowth of pot volumes. In the fall, plants are necessarily transplanted, which in the physical sense have nowhere to develop. If in the summer the plant grew rapidly, the rhizome grew so much that it covered the entire earthen lump, and the roots did not just appear, but crawled out of the drainage containers and / or the top of the substrate, the earthen lump is so filled with roots that even water does not penetrate into it - urgently transplant!
3. Souring, mold and salting of the soil. The easiest way to determine this problem is the appearance of the soil (salt crystals accumulate on the surface and walls of containers) and smell, because the affected soil exudes a specific sour or mushroom aroma. But the first sign is a sickly, wilting plant. Salting causes the wrong composition of water and irrigation with unsettled water. But only improper, excessive watering and stagnation of water in pots and pallets leads to acidification and the spread of mold, including as a result of the absence or improper selection of drainage and the depth of the containers.
4. Wrong selection of soil for acidity. If for plants growing only in slightly acidic and acidic substrates, soil with an alkaline reaction was used (and vice versa), as a rule, by the fall, the consequences of a mistake in the selection of soil will become obvious and inevitable.
5. Infection of the soil with pests, including nematodes, or severe damage to plants by fungal diseases, the causative agents of which could remain in the substrate. If any pests living in the soil are affected, especially when it comes to plants of a group of tuber-bulbous species, waiting for fungicides to help cope with the problem is most often useless. You cannot do without a transplant with a complete replacement of soil and thorough disinfection of the roots. It will also be necessary to change the substrate with all possible preventive measures for plants that have a risk of re-infection due to damage not only to the aerial parts, but also to the soil by viruses and diseases. Such a transplant is carried out only after the plant is cured of the disease, before being transferred from quarantine.
6. Buying a plant in a substrate in poor condition. This includes buying tubs transported in clean, inert soil, buying plants in spontaneous markets growing in dense garden soil, or ordering imported plants that require a substitute replacement according to the supplier's instructions. Such a transplant should be postponed until the end of the quarantine period. If the plant simply grew in peat or growth in inert soil can be compensated for with top dressing, it is always better to postpone the procedure until spring and the optimal timing.
When will an autumn transplant be in the way?
In the fall, even with plant health problems (with the exception of serious disease or pest damage), signs of a lack of space in the pot or growth problems, it is not always possible to carry out an emergency transplant.
Even with "indications" for a transplant, it is worth abandoning it in the fall:
- for plants that are going through the budding or flowering stage;
- for crops in a severely weakened state (for other reasons not related to the soil);
- with a sharp change in temperature or in extremely unstable temperatures;
- at the very beginning of the period of operation of heating systems (plants need to be given time to adapt to the new environment).
Features of autumn transplantation of indoor plants
Only when the volume of the pot outgrows and the purchase of plants in inert soil in the fall, transshipment is permissible, but even that is not entirely classical: the roots that have formed dense rings at the bottom of the container, as well as a too compacted waterproof lump, will have to be at least stirred up.
When the soil is depleted, it makes no sense to leave the spoiled substrate, and when salting, acidifying, contamination, the complete release of the roots from the old soil with inspection, pruning and processing of the roots is a mandatory measure.
Before proceeding with the transplant, you should make sure that you are well prepared for this procedure:
- prepare containers in which plants are transplanted in the fall: they should ideally match them in volume. Even with a very noticeable overgrowth of the old pot, it is impossible to increase its volume strongly, adhering to the standard recommendations for the ratio of height and width;
- make sure there are quality drainage holes and disinfect drainage materials at the bottom;
- check the requirements of a specific plant species;
- select the substrate and its composition individually, carry out processing (any soil in the fall, especially if an infected plant is transplanted into it, it is better to disinfect);
- prepare tools, containers and all preparations that will be needed for processing plants;
- prepare two workplaces - one for removing old soil, the other for planting in a clean substrate.
The basic rules for the autumn transplant procedure are very simple:
- In all cases, except for soil acidification, the plant is well watered several hours or a day before transplanting.
- The plant is carefully removed by turning or tilting the container and holding the above-ground parts as carefully as possible.
- The soil is carefully removed or washed off in warm clean water, trying to minimize contact with the roots. If the root ball is very dense, the roots must be untangled. Solid masses filled with small roots, from which it is impossible to remove the substrate, are cut in several places.
- After release, the roots are carefully examined. All places of damage, "doubtful" areas, dry, damaged roots are cut off.
- The cuts on the roots are immediately treated with charcoal. When it comes to plant infection, the cleaned rhizome is soaked first in clean water to remove small soil particles, and then in a fungicide solution, selected according to the disease or pest.
- Drainage is poured into a new container, the height of which must correspond to the requirements of a particular type of plant and on top - a thin layer of soil.
- The plant is set in the center, the roots are gently spread, the soil is poured evenly and slowly, filling the voids and trying not to bend the roots.
- The substrate is carefully compacted by squeezing the plant, but avoiding strong compaction. For species with fragile roots, you can simply refill the substrate later as it shrinks after watering. The level of deepening is checked, leaving the same and in no case deepening the plant deeper.
After the autumn transplant, the plant needs an adaptation period. It is exposed in mild conditions, protecting it from any temperature extremes, heat, cold, drafts, direct sun. Watering is carried out very carefully for another 2 to 3 weeks, focusing on the condition and minimum plant preferences for soil moisture.
If the plant suffered from soil dampness and for all succulents after transplanting, watering is not carried out, postponing for 2-3 days.
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