My Vaccinations, Or How I Diversified My Garden With New Varieties. Technique For The Bark. Photo

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My Vaccinations, Or How I Diversified My Garden With New Varieties. Technique For The Bark. Photo
My Vaccinations, Or How I Diversified My Garden With New Varieties. Technique For The Bark. Photo

Video: My Vaccinations, Or How I Diversified My Garden With New Varieties. Technique For The Bark. Photo

Video: My Vaccinations, Or How I Diversified My Garden With New Varieties. Technique For The Bark. Photo
Video: Summer garden tips & tour - keep your lavender and roses looking good! 2024, March
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The first fruiting of our Kuban garden, bought together with the house, demonstrated the need for radical changes. On one old apple tree and two old peaches, the fruits ripened at the same time. For ten days in August, we were engaged only in collection, processing and disposal. Without unbending. And then it was over. I mean, fresh fruits. Only late apples remained on a young apple tree, with a bucket. The young part of the garden gave a general harvest - the cat cried. The old plum showed its fig. It seemed like an unhealthy option to uproot and grow everything again, and I decided to try myself in vaccination. I'll tell you what happened.

My vaccinations, or How I diversified my garden with new varieties
My vaccinations, or How I diversified my garden with new varieties

Content:

  • Preparing for garden grafting
  • Terms of vaccination
  • Vaccination site
  • What graft to graft on what rootstock?
  • Bark grafting technique
  • How should I take care of my vaccinations?
  • Results of my vaccinations

Preparing for garden grafting

There was autumn and winter ahead, there seemed to be enough time. Theory first. If you read textbooks, vaccination is a complex and delicate undertaking that requires special tools and serious skills. I read Kurdyumov - nothing complicated. I cheered up, watched several videos on the vaccination technique, came to the conclusion that it is clearer in the pictures. And she moved on to a favorite pastime for garden shopaholics - finding grafting material in online stores.

And here a lot of surprises awaited me. The darkness of shops sells planting material, and no one wants to sell cuttings. I found two sites, and ordered a lot of cuttings, and all kinds. Prices for cuttings are now from 40 to 80 rubles, you can afford to turn around. I ordered one cuttings of each variety. Cuttings are 40 centimeters long, when inoculated they are cut into 3-4 parts, depending on the number of buds.

The swelling of the buds in most of the fruit here in the Kuban begins in March, therefore, when ordering, I agreed on the date of receipt - until March 5. In fact, the cuttings are being sent out in December, but it seemed to me that the producers had better conditions for storing cuttings than mine.

Having shoveled a bunch of information, I bought the necessary materials and tools. According to the results of 3 years of vaccinations, it turned out that what is really needed:

  • a large stationery knife with a stock of blades;
  • secateurs;
  • insulating tape;
  • grafting knife;
  • a roll of breakfast bags;
  • old newspapers or magazines;
  • garden pitch;
  • twine;
  • garden file;
  • plastic tags;
  • indelible marker.

I also found in my stock a handbag with an abundance of pockets, where I put all this household. Everything is at hand, hanging on a nearby branch when working. My husband regularly sharpens my tools, because the smoother and more accurate the cuts, the less damage is done to the tree, the easier it is to tighten the wound.

Vaccination readiness. On the left - the buds on the cherry have swollen, deviated from the shoot, turned green. On the right - about the same on the plum, the flower buds even turned a little white
Vaccination readiness. On the left - the buds on the cherry have swollen, deviated from the shoot, turned green. On the right - about the same on the plum, the flower buds even turned a little white

Terms of vaccination

Most of my grafts are in the spring. The exact date of vaccination and even the range of time cannot be named, it very much depends on the area and climate. It turned out to be easier for me to navigate by the state of the kidneys. The garden is nearby, you can check everything at least every day. Stone fruits wake up earlier, pome fruits later.

Before this period, the bark is still poorly separated from the wood and it is unlikely that it will be possible to vaccinate well, especially with a beginner. The first time, of course, I did not have enough patience, and at the very beginning of March I went to plant an apricot on an old plum tree. I cut down a 2-centimeter (diameter) branch, made cuts and tried to separate the bark - only I was exhausted and exhausted the branch.

The bark breaks, the cambium (the green layer under the bark, which is the most important in this process) also breaks. In general, nothing happened. This applies to the simplest vaccination "for the bark" in terms of execution and result. So there is no need to rush.

Moreover, later these phenophases can be grafted until the end of the active growth of shoots. That is, in our large country, the terms of the spring vaccination will last from February (very much in the south) to mid-June (where you can still inoculate something fruitful).

If the tree is not pleased with something, you can cut it completely below the level of the branches and plant a few cuttings
If the tree is not pleased with something, you can cut it completely below the level of the branches and plant a few cuttings

Vaccination site

The tree has its own laws of growth and for a successful grafting it is desirable to know at least the basics. I studied this topic before pruning trees, so it went easier here. First of all, the tree directs all the juices to the central conductor, that is, the grafts on it will take root best of all. The second in turn are the upper skeletal branches, which have the most vertical position. Here, too, vaccinations take root well.

The outsiders have lower, almost horizontal skeletal branches: the vaccine may take root, but it will be supplied with juices according to the residual principle and it is difficult to expect good growth from it.

If the tree does not please or is damaged by something, you can cut it down completely below the level of the branches and plant several cuttings of the same or different varieties.

For multi-stemmed trees, it is even simpler: in our old three-stemmed apple tree, the basis of which was made up of one hollow, we completely cut down two trunks at the level of a meter from the ground and I planted other varieties on these hemp.

What graft to graft on what rootstock?

Plants are ready to accept only relatives, albeit sometimes distant ones. In my assortment there were apple trees, plums, pears, peaches, cherries and one cherry.

The relationship between scion and rootstock is not a question of one monograph, but for a novice amateur, you can limit yourself to observing the basic rules:

  • the stock (the tree on which the cuttings are grafted) should be as resistant to climate and disease as possible, with healthy wood;
  • it is desirable that the timing of the fruiting of the rootstock be later than that of the scion;
  • it is easier to plant pome fruits (apple and pear) than stone fruits;
  • to graft on plants of their own kind, for example, on an apple tree - an apple tree, on a pear - a pear, on a cherry plum - plum, peach, apricot, cherry plum, almonds, on cherries - cherries and cherries, on cherries - cherries and cherries, on blackthorn or thorny - plum.

This is for beginners. Then you can further explore the topic and experiment. By the way, the felt cherry with the usual cherry is too distantly related, the plum is closer to her.

Figure: 1. Vaccination technique
Figure: 1. Vaccination technique

Bark grafting technique

I started with a bark vaccination, as the simplest and most effective one. After receiving the cuttings, I kept in a shed, where the temperature was kept from 1 to 5 degrees Celsius.

A cloudy, warm day without a hint of precipitation is best suited for vaccinations. I prepared in advance the tags with the name of the scion (cutting) and the date. During the day, the cuttings were unpacked, updated the lower cuts and put in a bucket of cold water.

Everywhere there are recommendations to practice on sticks first, I did not train. The victim trees have already been selected. Cherries, peaches, plums, cherries were the first to come in terms of time.

I cut off the twigs with a pruner or saw it off with a file, depending on the thickness, the husband saws thick trunks with an electric saw or a hacksaw. After trimming the stump along the contour, I clean it with a sharp clerical knife so that there are no scoring or irregularities. The tree needs to quickly heal the wounded surface. And the smaller the area, the faster it will cope.

A purse with everything you need hangs on a nearby knot, cuttings in a bucket of water are next to each other. From the moment of cutting the cutting to its dense insertion for the bark, no more than 30 seconds are taken. If you tighten it, then the cut will have to be updated - oxidation in air is fast. As a safety net, I used a glass of water with half a teaspoon of honey dissolved. I put cuttings there if something went wrong. In this case, the slice does not need to be updated.

On the stock with a sharp clerical knife I make a 2.5 cm incision (1-B in Fig. 1) and bend the bark with the bone of the grafting knife. I cut the cutting into pieces with 3-4 buds, in the middle between the buds. While working with one handle, the rest are in the water. I cut the cuttings with a clerical knife, it's more convenient for me, it has a thin and sharp blade. The upper cut above the kidney itself, the lower cut obliquely (1-, 2-A in Fig. 1) one and a half to two centimeters long, depending on the thickness of the cutting.

The kidney should be on the back of the cut plane and above it. The cut itself should be as smooth and even as possible. Gently shove the cutting under the bark. Depending on the thickness of the stock, I make 1-3 more cuts around the perimeter and stuff more cuttings of one or different varieties. (2-B in Fig. 1). I tightly wrap the branch with the cuttings with adhesive tape with the sticky side outward (otherwise it then tears off with bark and cuttings), cover it with garden pitch so that air does not penetrate there (3-B in Fig. 1).

I attach a tag to the branch with the name of the cutting and the date of vaccination. I wrap a branch with cuttings with paper so that it absorbs excess moisture and protects from the sun that is unnecessary so far. I put on a plastic bag on top, fasten it with twine or electrical tape.

In the first year of vaccination, I did not hang tags, wrote everything down in a notebook, but this was extra time in the process. And it's more convenient when the tag hangs. It turned out to be not a very good option to fasten the package with electrical tape, it is better with twine. It's easier to inspect that way.

According to my notes, it can be seen that two weeks passed between the grafting of stone fruits and pome fruits - apples and pears wake up later. This period strongly depends on the region; in the continental climate zones, spring is faster.

How should I take care of my vaccinations?

And then let them take root! Examining 2 weeks after vaccination. In cloudy or cloudy weather. If the buds are nailed to the scion, I change newspapers and bags for thin covering material - they don't need the sun yet. I fix the covering material again with twine or electrical tape.

They remain in this form for another week or two, depending on the weather. With the onset of cloudy or cloudy at least 2 days, the covering material can be removed - leaves are already blooming on the cuttings. Flowers may appear on some cuttings, they need to be cut off, the cutting does not have enough strength to bear fruit. In a month it will be clear what has taken root and what has not.

I do not remove the electrical tape. In the first year, the elasticity of the harness is enough to stretch, but not cut into a thickening knot. In the second year, at the beginning of the period of active growth, I make an incision along the cutting down with a clerical knife, cutting through the bark and scion, and rootstock, and the tape itself. And so I leave. Cambium will overgrow the wound and at the same time bind the scion more tightly to the stock.

Cherries with grafts
Cherries with grafts

Results of my vaccinations

For 2 grafting seasons, the survival rate of grafts on apple trees and pears was 23 out of 25 cuttings. They did not take root: quince on an apple tree and one apple tree on an apple tree. All pears have taken root.

The situation with stone fruits is much worse, 17 out of 34 vaccinations did not take root. But the literature also indicates the poor survival rate of these vaccinations. At the same time, the grafts in the central conductor and the upper branches took root all but one on the cherry. For a start, the result seems to me good.

Growths are the most powerful - in pears and apricots (on plums and peaches), in second place are apple trees, the most modest - on cherries and cherries.

Bloomed in the 2nd year: nectarine on a peach, the fruits set, but he threw them off; apricot "Black Velvet" on peach - tried it; cherries and cherries tied in a couple of berries, apple and pear trees have not bloomed yet.

Grafting "for the bark" is simple to perform, but has its drawbacks: cuttings break off easily. If two or more cuttings are grafted on one branch, I tie them together.

If only one has taken root, one can only hope that the eaten bird will not sit on this branch. Or come up with a "crutch".

In the second year, I already began to master the "cleft" vaccination, it is more difficult, but more reliable.

PS I trained with the grafting of nuts - the result is disastrous. On a walnut by the "bark" method, none of 5 grafts took root, on a hazelnut by the "split" method out of 5 took root. So far I cannot find the correct information on grafting a walnut on an adult tree into skeletal branches. Maybe climb up to a height of 4 meters and plant in the central conductor? To know that it will take root … With dogwood, too, so far continuous failures - does not take root.

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