Anthracnose Is A Dangerous Disease. Copperhead. Description, Struggle, Treatment. Preparations. Photo

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Anthracnose Is A Dangerous Disease. Copperhead. Description, Struggle, Treatment. Preparations. Photo
Anthracnose Is A Dangerous Disease. Copperhead. Description, Struggle, Treatment. Preparations. Photo

Video: Anthracnose Is A Dangerous Disease. Copperhead. Description, Struggle, Treatment. Preparations. Photo

Video: Anthracnose Is A Dangerous Disease. Copperhead. Description, Struggle, Treatment. Preparations. Photo
Video: The Copperhead Snake: Everything You Need To Know! 2023, December

Anthracnose is a dangerous plant disease. It is caused by imperfect mushrooms Kabatiella, Colletotrichum, Gloeosporium. These mushrooms can spoil crops such as watermelons, pumpkins, legumes, grapes, squash, melons, cucumbers and even citrus fruits to a fairly strong degree. In addition, anthracnose affects walnuts, almonds, berry bushes that are native and close to us - currants, raspberries and gooseberries. This problem is a big topic that many scientists are working on, but we will try to tell you as briefly and interestingly as possible about how anthracnose (copperhead) manifests itself in a particular culture, how to deal with it, or, perhaps, to do with one only prevention. So, anthracnose …

Anthracnose on tomato leaves
Anthracnose on tomato leaves


  • Description of anthracnose
  • Signs of anthracnose
  • How to deal with anthracnose?
  • Anthracnose disease - prevention
  • Signs of anthracnose
  • Anthracnose treatment on shrubs and trees
  • Anthracnose on flowers
  • Anthracnose preparations

Description of anthracnose

As a person of various kinds of disease, and plant organisms are usually affected when they have weakened immunity, that is, there is no protection. In this situation, this disease can get into a weak plant through wounds or cracks in the surface, or it can be transmitted through seed material obtained from already infected plants or from part of dead plants. Spores of anthracnose are easily transmitted by the wind over decent distances, can be carried by insects, water, that is, by drops of rain, dew or irrigation moisture. The disease develops most actively, and it appears most often precisely when there is increased humidity in the air or soil.

Signs of anthracnose

Anthracnose usually begins with a lesion on the leaf: spots are usually formed on it of a reddish-brownish color with a border, which, as usual, is darker in color, may be slightly yellow or darker. Over time, the generally unremarkable specks become larger and larger, growing so much that they literally merge with each other.

Further, sometimes anthracnose symptoms are observed simultaneously on the branches, as well as on the shoots. Usually these are literally depressed areas, through which, either with a long delay, or at all, nutrients do not pass. Most often, these areas look like light brown spots of an oblong shape, which every day become larger and larger, deeper, darker, and at the final stage a brownish or dark purple rim is formed around these depressed spots.

If the weather is dry and rather warm at this time, then all places affected by anthracnose are usually covered with noticeable cracks, but if it rains and the air is literally saturated with moisture, then the affected stems and shoots begin to actively disintegrate, they literally rot, break at the slightest touch, or a gust of wind.

If the disease is ignored, then the leaf will turn brown, dry up, and then literally the entire above-ground part of the plant will die. As we have already mentioned, anthracnose develops most actively in conditions of high or excessive humidity. Here is an ideal combination for the development of anthracnose: the air temperature is +23 degrees, the humidity is about 87-88%, there is little potassium, phosphorus and a high acid content in the soil - in such conditions, plants are simply doomed to get sick with anthracnose. We will treat the copperhead.

Anthracnose on cucumber leaves and fruits
Anthracnose on cucumber leaves and fruits

How to deal with anthracnose?

So, not everything is so bad, and fortunately, a lot is being treated. We know that the nature of anthracnose is fungal, therefore, it can be fought with the help of antifungal drugs (fungicides). The drugs change from year to year, a number of drugs are prohibited, but we will give examples of the most effective against anthracnose - these are Cuproxat, Oxyhom (it is quite safe, based on copper, but it may not help), Acrobat MC, copper oxychloride itself, Ridomil Gold, Previkur, Skor, Fundazol.

Do not hope that these drugs are omnipotent and will literally destroy anthracnose in just one treatment, it will be good if they can help at all: usually two or three treatments are required at intervals of one week. By the way, it is quite acceptable to change the preparations, not to treat them with the same and pay attention to the precipitation outside the window. So, if after processing it rained, then all the work, obviously, will be down the drain.

To inhibit the spread of infection, microbiological preparations that are more benign for the environment are used, such as Gamair and Fitosporin-M.

Anthracnose disease - prevention

Prevention is the best treatment (golden words). It must be firmly remembered that infectious agents may already be on the seed that you are holding in your hands, on any gardening equipment, which practically no one ever disinfects anything, but does not wash, as well as in irrigation water (for example, in good old black-painted barrel in the garden), as well as on the wings or other parts of the body of insects.

As soon as the humidity rises and the conditions mentioned above arise, microorganisms are immediately activated, the disease itself begins to progress. To build protection against anthracnose, it is imperative to observe the crop rotation, always disinfect the seeds before sowing, even if they are collected by your own hands, remove plant residues from the garden and garden and it is advisable to dig up the soil so that large clods do not collapse, then the infection hidden in the soil, has every chance of freezing.

Garden tools, if you don't care that they may be infected, then at least think about their safety because of the price (expensive, however): all you need to do is wash, dry and wrap with oiled paper, putting them in a dry and clean a place.

When copulating and budding, do not be too lazy to take with you 10-15 g of ordinary alcohol, after each cut of an eye or a cut on a tree, wipe the knife blade with a cloth soaked in alcohol. This way you will not spread the infection.

It is quite acceptable to carry out protective treatments with fairly safe drugs. For example, in early spring, when the plants are still sleeping, they can be treated with Topsin-M by pouring (1-2 ml) of the growth stimulant Zircon, Epin or Immunocytophyte into it, and the infection may not appear at all.

Anthracnose on an apple tree branch
Anthracnose on an apple tree branch

Signs of anthracnose

Now that we have talked about anthracnose in general, let's talk a little about the signs of its manifestation on the main crops, including flowers, and name approximate options for combating this disease.

Cucumber anthracnose

The leaf, stem, fruit of the plant suffers from it, and already in the young, seedling period. You can notice the manifestation of anthracnose on a tiny seedling of a cucumber in the area of its root collar, there will be visible depressed spots that will turn into ulcers, and the seedlings will simply lie down. In adult plants, yellow or brown spots will appear at the edges of the leaves, at first a couple of millimeters, and then they will quickly increase tenfold.

As a result, through holes are formed in place of the spots, and the fungus, losing interest in the leaves, will move to the stems, completing its dirty work with fruits, on which brown spots will form, extending a few millimeters in depth. If anthracnose is found in the root area, 10-15 g of 1% Bordeaux liquid or 0.5% Abiga-Peak solution should be poured under the plants, but the soil should be well watered in advance. One treatment, as a rule, is not enough, you need to carry out two or three of them. Pour Copper Oxychloride or Poliram on the leaves (instructions on the package).

Tomato anthracnose

Usually adult tomatoes suffer from anthracnose: at first, the upper leaves fade, as if from a lack of moisture, then spots with black sclerotia form on them. On fruits, black and about a centimeter depressed areas are usually clearly visible, blackening and softening over time. Professionals advise using drugs such as Poliram, Tiovit Jet, Cumulus-DF to combat anthracnose, and also use colloidal sulfur, Bordeaux liquid or copper oxychloride.

Potato anthracnose

Anthracnose can infect both tubers and plant stems. On the stems, these are usually light brown spots, on the tubers - vague spots of dark brown color. If you "blink" and lay such a tuber for storage, then it can spoil the whole batch, since wet rot will develop on it and begin to spread further. It is difficult to overcome anthracnose on potatoes, it is much easier to grow it in one place every four years, treat the tubers with fungicides before planting, remove weeds, especially "classmates" and remove all plant residues from the site after harvesting. After that, having dug up the soil deeply without loosening, leave it for the winter.

Zucchini anthracnose

This disease in zucchini affects the entire aerial part and the plant dies. If yellow-brown spots are found on the leaf blades, treat the plants with a solution of colloidal sulfur. On zucchini, I checked it myself and made sure of its effectiveness, you need to use 50 g of colloidal sulfur per bucket of water, having treated all parts of the plant affected by anthracnose with this solution. A neighbor in the country treated it with Bordeaux liquid, took 1%, no more, said that it was also very effective.

Watermelon and melon anthracnose

Usually, the stems of watermelons and melons suffer most from anthracnose, they become excessively fragile. Affected fruits do not grow, do not accumulate sugars. On diseased fruits, depressed spots are clearly visible, which rot. If signs of anthracnose are found, the plants should be treated with cuproxate three times, strictly following the dosages indicated on the package. The first time - during the beginning of the growth of the lashes, the second - as soon as the ovary begins to form, and the third - two weeks after the second treatment. But here it is important not to delay the processing: from the last processing of the season to harvesting the fruits, 25 days should pass, no less.

Anthracnose on watermelon
Anthracnose on watermelon
Anthracnose on zucchini
Anthracnose on zucchini

Anthracnose treatment on shrubs and trees

Currant anthracnose

First of all, anthracnose appears on the lowest leaves, brown spots are clearly visible there, which very quickly increase in size. Further, the leaves dry and fall off, and the disease switches to shoots, forming depressed spots on them, which become just wounds. As a result, whitish ulcers appear on the berries. As a rule, it is not possible to save the harvest, but in the autumn it is useful to treat the bushes with a solution of Nitrafen or 1% with the drug Dnok, then dig up the soil and repeat these treatments in early spring.

The next season, as soon as the entire crop is harvested, you can treat the bushes with 1-2% Bordeaux liquid or fungicides, if the plants were again affected - these are Tiovil Jet and Cumulus-DF,

Gooseberry anthracnose

In fact, all the same actions as on currants, only more careful with the ripening time, so that the preparations do not fall on the berries intended for collection.

Raspberry anthracnose

On raspberries, the beginning of anthracnose is small, round, gray-blue specks on the leaves and sores on the shoots. Modern fungicides help well, 1% Bordeaux liquid or a solution of copper oxychloride, in an amount of 40 g per bucket of water (the norm per square meter of raspberries), can help.

Grape anthracnose

Anthracnose rarely attacks grapes, but, as they say, aptly. It develops literally on all aboveground organs of the plant, but only young tissues, which are no more than a month old, suffer from it. First, grayish spots with a red or dark border appear on the leaves, which grow, increasing twice, after which the leaf tissue simply falls out and a through hole forms.

At the same time, brownish spots are visible on the shoots, and ulcers on the inflorescences, which leads to their death. Those who are engaged in grapes write that it can be cured by treating it with the usual 1% Bordeaux liquid, but it is impossible to delay the treatment of anthracnose. The next year, without waiting for a second outbreak, the plants must again be treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid, as soon as the shoots reach a length of 10 cm.

Naturally, serious growers also use more serious preparations such as Abiga-Pica, Previkura, Fundazol, Ordan, Skor, and some of them are helped by ordinary copper sulfate: apparently, everything depends on the growing zone.

Strawberry anthracnose (wild strawberry)

On strawberries, garden anthracnose can "mow" up to 85% of the total harvest, that is, nullify all thoughts about it. The most interesting thing is that it is often literally invisible, and only when the plant is preparing for another world, signs of infection appear: small depressed heels of scarlet-brown color form on the antennae and in the upper part of the leaf, they merge into ulcers and the foliage dies. To protect against anthracnose, you need to apply fungicides, and the treatments should be carried out three or four times during the flowering period. Medicines such as Signum, a good Italian remedy, tried on my site, can help.

Cherry anthracnose

On cherries, anthracnose appears suddenly in the middle of summer, dry to the touch and rather hard spots appear on the berries, which can, having grown, capture the entire surface of the fruit. The annual sanitary pruning and treatment of the plant in spring with 1% Bordeaux liquid helps to prevent the manifestation of anthracnose on cherries, while the buds are still awake. Previously, milk of lime helped me in my garden, I took a couple of kilograms of lime and dissolved it in a bucket of water, after which I treated all the plants with this solution.

It is said that if 150-200 g of wood ash is added to the cherry tree trunk annually, anthracnose will not appear.

Immediately, after removing every last berry, treat the plants with a solution of copper sulfate, for each tree you need 100 g of copper sulfate diluted in a bucket of water. After the foliage has fallen, be sure to remove all of it and process the plants by dissolving 200 g of urea in a bucket of water.

Anthracnose on strawberry leaves
Anthracnose on strawberry leaves
Anthracnose on grapes
Anthracnose on grapes
Anthracnose on raspberries
Anthracnose on raspberries

Anthracnose on flowers

Anthracnose anthurium

First, small brown specks appear on the edges of the leaves, then they grow and eventually merge with each other and the leaf dies. It is better to remove all affected organs from a diseased plant, then transplant it into fresh soil, and treat it with any of the permitted fungicides on an open and ventilated terrace (Skor, Previkur and others).

Anthracnose on an orchid

The spots on the leaves are like a brand, and the edges seem to be burned. Loose formations are visible at the base of the leaf blades. Try to trim off all affected parts and cover living tissue with crushed charcoal. The substrate must be replaced. On a ventilated terrace, treat orchids with Fitosporin-M, Trichodermin and Baktofit.

Anthracnose on cacti

Cacti get sick with anthracnose, only if they are heavily flooded, it is difficult to cure cacti. Usually, depressed spots with a bright border (signs of anthracnose) are simply cut out with a sharp knife, grabbing healthy tissue, and treated with finely crushed coal. Next, you need to stop watering for at least a month, the fungus should die, and the cactus should survive.

Anthracnose on a cactus
Anthracnose on a cactus

Anthracnose preparations

Here is a list of the freshest, approved drugs for anthracnose (fungicides), here they are, along with their shortest description:

  • Abiga-Peak is a contact fungicide containing copper. The spectrum of action is wide, not only for anthracnose.
  • Acrobat MC is a systemic-local drug, with its help it is possible to heal plants from many fungal diseases.
  • Previkur is a systemic drug that also has restorative growth activity.
  • Ridomil Gold is a systemic drug, with its help you can defeat not only anthracnose.
  • Skor is a systemic fungicide that can be used both for prophylaxis and for treatment, including from scab, phytophthora, and other diseases.
  • Tiovit Jet is a contact fungicide that also serves as an acaricide and can kill ticks (based on sulfur).
  • Topsin-M is a systemic fungicide that can be used both to treat anthracnose and to prevent this disease. You can also cultivate the soil with it.
  • Trichodermin - a drug from a series of biological fungicides, can also be of both therapeutic and prophylactic action, it can also treat the soil, thereby making it healthy.
  • Fitosportin-M is also a biological fungicide, which, however, has a contact effect; toxicity to humans and beneficial insects is negligible.
  • Fundazole, the broadest systemic fungicide often used as a seed dressing agent, can heal and protect, but pests quickly become accustomed to it.
  • Strobi - fights most fungal infections and (most interestingly) is considered resistant to atmospheric precipitation.
  • Quadris is a systemic fungicide that can be used as a prophylactic and therapeutic agent against fungal infections.
  • Cuproxat - here he just remarkably fights against grape anthracnose and is almost the best drug of those that contain copper.
  • Ordan is a good contact-systemic fungicide used to combat a whole range of fungal diseases.

So, we told you about anthracnose, if you missed something, do not judge strictly, ask questions in the comments and we will definitely answer them!