Table of contents:
- Strange Far Eastern spring
- Frost-resistant bulbous perennials
- Frost-resistant herbaceous perennials
- Frost-resistant rhizome perennials

Video: The Most Frost-resistant Spring Perennials In My Garden. Titles, Descriptions, Photos

2023 Author: Ava Durham | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-11-27 07:13
My first garden was created in the Khabarovsk Territory, in a rather harsh climatic and not the most successful local conditions. He taught me a lot. I wanted a garden blooming from spring to autumn, and the plants wanted, first of all, to survive in these conditions. Not everyone succeeded, the most persistent remained, providing flowering from the beginning of May to noticeable frosts. In this article I will talk about spring perennials, which turned out to be the most frost-resistant.

Content:
- Strange Far Eastern spring
- Frost-resistant bulbous perennials
- Frost-resistant herbaceous perennials
- Frost-resistant rhizome perennials
Strange Far Eastern spring
There is no spring, in the understanding that is customary for the middle lane, in the Khabarovsk Territory. In April, the snow may no longer be there, it has melted, but the frozen ground thaws until May. The grass doesn't even show. There are no green buds, let alone leaves, not in sight. Bare dry earth, bare trees and dust.
Here on this bare ground at the beginning of May, the first bulbous ones make their way: plump leaves of the forest, narrow straws of crocuses, a couple of snowdrops leaves, the first flowers appear. This touching picture lasts five days.
After that, the sprint race begins: by the end of the first week of May, the top layer of the earth warms up, it becomes warm and sometimes even hot, early tulips, late-flowering crocuses, scillas and kandyks begin to climb at a terrible speed. Blossom and bloom in a week. Although at this time there are recurrent frosts and snow. However, in my memory there were frosts on June 30.
Other types of tulips follow, and only they, in cool and calm weather, are able to maintain flowering for four weeks (all species - from early to late).
As tulips bloom in different places, dwarf irises, thick-leaved berry, Siberian brunner, arabis, rejected primrose, decorative bows, cypress euphorbia, and lungwort bloom and fade in different places.
All this blooming madness takes place against the background of other plants in a hurry to live - honeysuckle, cherries, plums, bird cherry trees flourish in 3-5 days, leaves bloom on almost all trees within a week. The grass climbs with tremendous force and speed. Apple trees, pears, lilacs flourish quickly, in 5-7 days, and that's it - spring is over. Insects on pollination work from dawn to dusk, otherwise you may not have time.

Frost-resistant bulbous perennials
All of these spring perennials feel more or less comfortable on dry soil, which freezes less, does not crack and does not tear the roots of plants. Small-bulbous ones grow better in raised beds, tulips in a dry place are buried to the depth where they are comfortable (I plant 15 centimeters, dig out 25-30 cm). None of the listed plants have ever harbored.
But with daffodils and muscari did not work: the maximum that strong bulbs of autumn planting are capable of is to bloom once, already in the next winter they die. I buried the bulbs in the fall regularly in different places for 7 years in a row, I really wanted daffodils and muscari. But - no way.
The woods are stable everywhere. The snowdrops were capricious with the choice of the place (I dragged the delenki all over the site) and settled on the southwestern side of the honeysuckle.
Crocuses, as well as Scyllas and Kandyks, agreed to grow only in the driest and sunniest places, and that is mainly species. Large-flowered crocuses fall out after 2-3 years. Moreover, crocuses took root near daylilies, covering everything around with their abundant foliage, and scyllas and kandyks - in those places where a lot of foliage was blowing in autumn.

Tulips
In the first years, I ran with tulips as with a written sack: I dug, dried, buried them back in the fall. Then I got perennial tulips that don't need to be dug out every year. And a year later, I stopped annually digging and planting all this overgrown farm, watching the tulips - who feels bad from this, and who does not.
In dry, sunny places, everyone felt good! After all, the summer in Komsomolsk-on-Amur is sunny and hot, the earth warms up well. Therefore, at first I switched to digging in a year or two, and then - only for the capricious ones or if they grew very large.
A necessary caveat: the site is frankly dry, huge poplars grow nearby, sucking water out like pumps. More or less humid places are occupied by beds. I tried to plant tulips there. So there they are uncomfortable, if they do not dig out, they die.

Decorative bows
Decorative bows grow and bloom without whims and grow well: giant, karatavsky, blue, slime.
Giant is beautiful and monumental in bloom, but requires "covering the legs" - the leaves begin to dry long before flowering and do not add decorative effect.
It is advisable to plant Karatavsky next to plants with spreading foliage - after flowering, the leaves will die off and there will be no traces. Blue is very good planted with a thick border, along the contour of the garden, for example. And slime in this capacity is not bad. In addition, they are quite edible. And within the bounds of decency and the allotted place, you can keep them by pulling them out for food. Dry places also worked well for all onions.
Luke Moli and Ostrovsky did not take root - they are cold.

Frost-resistant herbaceous perennials
Brunner is aggressive - all pieces of root that are simply thrown to the ground take root. But even the wildest and most uncivilized species are remarkably good with bright blue "forget-me-not" flowers and rough heart-shaped foliage.
In the literature, there is a mention that surprised me that Brunner is hygrophilous. I did not give her such happiness, because even in dry partial shade without watering it grows in three years so that only the most malicious weeds make their way through her bushes. By July, her leaves begin to dry out and it is better to cut them off so as not to spoil the view - in two weeks she will grow a new green rug.
In addition, Brunner survives and blooms in places where even grass does not grow much - in a dry and shaded place, under old poplars, for example. I did not feel sorry for such a place at all, and Brunner covered the entire area given to her with her rough leaves. High-quality Brunners are more capricious.
I love badans for their solidity - they sit in one place, not raging and not weed, plump leaves clump tightly and hold firmly even after the first frosts. Bronze first with edges, and then entirely. And their peduncles are plump with tightly sitting flowers - a kind of seriousness amid spring frivolity. Again, they quite calmly tolerate dry partial shade, of which I have a lot.
I was looking for planting material for lungwort for two years - everything somehow did not work out. And then the bush was found under the plum, and further worries were only with transplanting to the desired areas - the seedlings emerged in various places.
The lungwort attracts with multi-colored flowers (corollas change color with age), variegated foliage and general cheerful appearance. The leaves are decorative all season. She didn't really like the dry shadow - it grew and bloomed weakly. But in a more humid shady place, it showed itself in all its glory. Fresh young leaves can be crumbled into a salad. The whole plant has medicinal properties.
Siebold's ephemeral primrose lives in a dry place in the sun, just like arabis does. Moreover, one of the Arabis climbed into a Canadian park rose (not a covering one) and cohabits well with it.
And in a very dry, sunny and protected place from the north, the cypress euphorbia settled. He, like lungwort, also after a while begins to sprout in the most unexpected places. Such cute Christmas trees can be grown with a rug or separate curtains - how much space is provided for it, it will take so much.

Frost-resistant rhizome perennials
Low-growing irises in dry places also grow remarkably, and even the regular "black frosts" (temperature drops to -20 degrees in the absence of snow) do not cause them much harm. The same cannot be said about the tall ones.
Having suffered with the tall ones, I didn't want to plant the short ones. But then I saw a jacket from friends in the country and caught fire. Not in vain: the tiny little deeds turned into lush blooming bushes after two years, and a year later I was distributing the shares to my friends, without prejudice to decorativeness.
PS A little about the sad: stonecrops have not taken root, varietal anemones too. Fell erantisy and hyacinths.
Despite this, throughout May the site pleases with flowering and passes the baton to summer perennials. Based on the fact that June is already summer. Even if it's freezing. It's just such a summer.
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