10 Secrets Of Growing Indoor Roses. Lighting, Location Selection, Home Care. Photo

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10 Secrets Of Growing Indoor Roses. Lighting, Location Selection, Home Care. Photo
10 Secrets Of Growing Indoor Roses. Lighting, Location Selection, Home Care. Photo

Video: 10 Secrets Of Growing Indoor Roses. Lighting, Location Selection, Home Care. Photo

Video: 10 Secrets Of Growing Indoor Roses. Lighting, Location Selection, Home Care. Photo
Video: How To Grow Roses - This Is What Professionals Do! 2023, December

Another "bonus" is always "attached" to the flowering of indoor roses - capriciousness. When they say that it is very easy to grow roses in rooms, they are cunning. For indoor roses to bloom, literally ideal conditions must be created. And vigilant care, attention and response to any plant signals is the main guarantee of success. True, no matter how capricious roses are, you can grow them in a pot format quite successfully. And attentive flower growers should not be afraid of this.

10 secrets of growing indoor roses
10 secrets of growing indoor roses

In order for indoor roses to bloom from year to year and remain healthy, to release a dense crown of bright leaves, you need to carefully study the features and habits of plants. The first mistakes can be made already when choosing a rose on the counter. But for the first days in the house, and for further care, there are secrets.

1. Making the right choice of plant

When choosing roses, it is worthwhile to carefully weigh your own possibilities to satisfy the individual preferences of the plant. Despite the fact that indoor roses seem to be the same and are chosen for "taste and color", they are not at all uniform in their capriciousness. Just as among garden roses, floribundas differ from grandifloras, and those from hybrid tea roses, so indoor roses differ in endurance, the ability to easily withstand slight deviations from ideal conditions, and resistance to diseases.

True, it is much easier to understand the range of indoor roses: the more compact, denser, more natural in silhouette and medium-flowered plant, the less capricious it is. Everything unusual, large, ideally strict, miniature, abundant, extravagant and spectacular in indoor roses is also synonymous with their capriciousness. Therefore, among the presented indoor beauties, it is always better to make a choice in favor of the "modest girls".

Roses from the miniature group, with tiny flowers, are not only unstable to diseases, but also do not shed fading flowers. Luxurious large-flowered series and ampelous roses may be resistant to disease, but require a very strict rest period and error-free care.

But there are also exceptions. Much larger and more powerful than ordinary indoor roses , Patio Hit series patio roses can withstand drought and grow well in dry air. But even this will have to "pay" - a cold winter. It is better to ask about the usual conditions and features of the maintenance of roses when buying.

The main secret of successfully growing indoor roses is choosing the right type of plant
The main secret of successfully growing indoor roses is choosing the right type of plant

2. Quarantine period with a small bonus

The first days of indoor roses in the house are the most important. In fact, they will determine how the plant will grow and whether it will survive in the new home. In the case of roses, you need to combine regular grooming with gentle, smooth adaptation - the usual "intermediate" quarantine period.

No matter how beautiful a blooming rose may seem (and indoor beauties are usually bought at the peak of flowering), you should not immediately carry it to a permanent place. Recommended and familiar conditions are "averaged", avoiding any extremes.

Expose the rose far from other plants - in soft lighting with medium or slightly low temperatures. Protect from drafts, temperature surges, direct sun, lack of light and other extremes. But before carrying a rose in such conditions, you must definitely take care of its cleaning and preparation. The sellers always treat roses with special preparations for the leaves, pamper them with foliar dressing to achieve the maximum "marketable" decorative effect, and most often they also add "secret" agents to the cocktail - growth inhibitors that keep the bushes compact.

To wash off all impurities and residues of preparations from the rose is a very important task and requires only a few procedures:

  • re-examine the rose very carefully, paying special attention to the reverse side of the leaves;
  • remove damaged, dry leaves starting to change color from the plant, shortening damaged shoots if necessary;
  • gently, without soaking flowers and soil surface, wash the bushes under a warm shower.

If there is any suspicion of infection with fungal diseases, infections, pests, it is better to carry out preventive spraying with universal insecticidal and fungicidal preparations immediately after shower.

The main secret of the rose quarantine period is the soft "transfer" of the plant to the new air humidity. In any flower shop, roses enjoy high and stable humidity. In the first 2-3 days, roses are either often sprayed or a humidifier is installed. And from the fourth day, the moisture readings are slowly reduced, bringing them to those in which you intend to grow the plant in a permanent place. Spraying is more convenient because it can simply be made more rare.

After the completion of the adaptation period, the rose is transferred to a permanent place, adding to their collections. For infected plants, isolation is continued for the entire duration of treatment.

There is no need to rush to transplant indoor roses
There is no need to rush to transplant indoor roses

3. Do not rush to transfer

A transplant after purchase and even after a quarantine period is carried out only when absolutely necessary. If several bushes grow in a pot, they are by no means separated until next spring, or at least until the end of flowering.

You can always simply put pots with roses in a more decorative container, but it is better to refuse to transplant until the optimal time, if the plant has room to develop and the roots do not crawl out of the drainage holes.

With a forced transplant, the rose is passed over without destroying the earthen coma and slightly removing only the free upper and lower soil layers. If you need to fill up the substrate or change the topsoil, use a quality rose substrate.

The optimal time to transplant roses is a few weeks after the end of flowering or in early spring (before the rose begins to grow - in late February or early March).

Indoor roses are transplanted annually, growing in compact containers sufficient for the development of the plant for one season. The diameter of the pots is increased by only 2-3 cm; if necessary, the root system is cut to restore compactness. They are sensitive to soil depletion and even a partial change of the substrate with the addition of fresh soil allows the plant to maintain a normal environment.

When the time comes, the roses are transplanted very carefully, even when separating the bushes, trying to keep contacts to a minimum. Indoor roses are grown only in containers with large drainage holes, of a classic shape, not too deep, but not flat, with drainage, the height of which should be from ¼ to 1/3 of the height of the container.

For roses, it is better to use either ready-made special substrates (almost every manufacturer has a special soil for roses), or high-quality universal soil with a rough texture. If you have individual components, then the soil mixture can be composed of equal parts of peat and humus, adding half the proportion of sand, charcoal or ash.

4. Ideal location for exemplary flowering

Regal roses, even in a room format, do not "agree" to compromises. Any place will not suit them. Roses not only bloom only in conditions ideally suited to their requirements, but are also able to maintain greenery, develop normally, and bloom again only with the right lighting and temperatures.

For indoor roses, you need to find a place in the house where the lighting will be diffused, but very bright. Indoor roses are placed only on the windowsills, while not always even the first row is a sufficient guarantee that the roses will not need additional lighting.

Oriental or southwest-facing windows are best suited for roses. On the southern windows, the roses are too hot, on the northern windows, when flowering continues and leaves are preserved, supplementary lighting is needed not only in winter, but also in autumn, and on western windows supplementary lighting is required in winter. Lighting in winter for roses with bare shoots is not critical.

Roses are tolerant of room temperatures. But the cooler the environment, the longer and poorer they bloom, the better the leaves look. The permissible air temperature for roses is from 16 to 26 degrees during the flowering period. The optimal values of the indicators are much more modest - from 16 to 22 degrees.

During the dormant period, the roses must be kept cool. With an ideal value of 12 to 15 degrees, permissible deviations are from 3 degrees Celsius to 15 degrees Celsius, maximum. All excursions outside the permissible ranges affect the growth and flowering of indoor roses and temperature compensation measures should be taken immediately. The minimum temperature that indoor roses can tolerate is 0 ° C.

Oriental or southwest-facing windows are best suited for roses
Oriental or southwest-facing windows are best suited for roses

5. Simple protection against wrong temperatures

Despite the fact that indoor roses are quite sensitive to improper temperatures, you can compensate for them with care and additional procedures. It is the care and careful observation of the plant that is the main guarantee that the roses in the potted format will remain healthy.

There are only two treatments to help roses cope with hotter temperatures:

  • spraying, which can be included in the care program when the temperature rises to 24 degrees or more (in the summer it is carried out several times a day);
  • airing rooms (protecting the plant from drafts and sudden temperature changes in the form of a protective shelter or temporary transfer to a new place).

But it is easier to deal with low, too cold values: the plant is simply transferred to a warmer room. In winter, if the roses are kept at temperatures below 10 degrees, plants are saved from hypothermia and the risk of falling values below 3 degrees Celsius by means of additional insulation of containers or a temporary cap. As the temperature rises, it is important to protect the roses from sudden changes by slowly changing the temperature of the content to reduce stress.

Any extremes with hypothermia or overheating of the soil are very dangerous for roses. And while the temperature indicators in the room are easily leveled by timely measures taken, everything is more difficult with the substrate. Any contact with cold surfaces, including glass or a window sill, without a protective stand, during the cold season can lead to partial hypothermia of the substrate.

In summer, on hot days, the soil needs to be protected from overheating, also through the use of double containers and wrapping materials that stabilize the temperature of the substrate inside the main pot.

To stabilize the temperature, the roses are watered with slightly lukewarm water - 2-4 degrees above the temperature in the room - with water. In summer, if the rooms are very hot, the water temperature can be lowered by 2-3 degrees, but only as a last resort and without creating a temperature shock for the plant roots.

6. Austere shape and clean shrubs for successful flowering

In order for indoor roses to bloom as long and plentifully as possible, you need to take timely care of the removal of fading flowers. As with garden bushes, fading luxurious flowers will not decorate a room rose. But if in the garden from afar their shortcomings can not be noticed, in the room all the "ugliness" immediately catch the eye.

You should not wait for even the first petal to fall: the flowers are cut as soon as they begin to wither. Pruning of wilting inflorescences and rose flowers must be carried out correctly: if it is not a multi-flowered rose with flowers collected in dense inflorescences, then together with a peduncle to the first leaf.

If the rose releases shields and brushes of inflorescences, then individual flowers are cut off together with the pedicel, and after the last flower has faded - the entire inflorescence according to general rules, up to the first leaf.

The main formation and pruning of shoots is carried out only after the end of flowering. Pruning on indoor roses can be done:

  • after shedding the leaves (if they persist, 1 week after flowering) after the plant is transferred to cool conditions;
  • before the start of active growth and transplantation, if carried out.

On all indoor roses, damaged, dry shoots are removed, and the rest is shortened to short stumps with 3 to 5 buds, leaving twigs about 10-15 cm high. The bushes are formed so that they are regularly renewed, leaving about 4-6 strong skeletal shoots and removing the oldest and weakest branches.

When pruning, make sure that the upper bud is directed outward of the bush. As new branches grow, the formation is carried out by pinching and selective pruning of the tops or shortening too long branches to 3-5 buds.

The main formation and pruning of shoots is carried out only after the completion of the flowering of a room rose
The main formation and pruning of shoots is carried out only after the completion of the flowering of a room rose

7. Abundant watering, but reasonable

At a time when roses are actively increasing the vegetative mass, release buds and bloom, they always need abundant, frequent watering. But it would be a big mistake to carry them out thoughtlessly. The status of a flowering, but capricious queen of roses did not get by accident. Indoor queens should be watered so that the substrate is always consistently moist - but not lightly or excessively, but at medium levels.

There is only one way to achieve such stability - before each next watering, checking how the soil in the pots dries out. Indoor roses like to dry completely only 2-3 top centimeters of soil.

To eliminate the need for manual testing, simple moisture indicators can be purchased to tell you when to water. It is unacceptable to allow water to accumulate in the trays and the bottom of the substrate. It is better to drain excess water from the stands as soon as it appears.

During the dormant period, the frequency of watering, as well as how poor they should be, is determined by the temperature of the rose. The ideal strategy is to check the substrate dryness and dry it by about a third or half.

In autumn and winter, it is better to avoid abundant procedures: it is much safer to water more often, but with a small amount of water, slightly soaking the substrate. The warmer it is, the more often the roses will have to be watered, while when kept in the cold at the lowest permissible temperatures, watering may be needed no more than 1-2 times a month.

Even a single complete drying out of the substrate and skipping watering, as well as dampness, stagnant water, will not pass without leaving a trace for indoor roses. These plants never forgive mistakes, and with watering - in the first place. Of course, the consequences are most obvious during flowering, but during the dormant period, you should not experiment with extremes.

8. Bonus feeding

Roses are often recommended to be fed in the same way as any other flowering houseplant - during a period of active growth. Usually - in spring and summer, or from the moment new leaves and shoots begin to grow until the end of the flowering period.

For them, the standard frequency of feeding is 1 every 2 weeks. But in order to achieve maximum effect from the rose and preserve the plants from year to year, you should not be limited to the usual approach. A few additional procedures and a little trick with a decrease in frequency will allow you to meet all the needs of roses without the risk of overfeeding or underfeeding.

Indoor roses, indeed, can be fed once every 2 weeks with complex fertilizers, if desired, changing their composition at the stage of budding and flowering. But roses respond much better to weekly feeding. It is better to carry out them separately with mineral and organic fertilizers, using half of the usual dose. Special fertilizers for roses are quite suitable for the mineral "stage".

Another strategy can be applied. At the very beginning of growth during the month, it is better to feed the roses with full mineral fertilizers or fertilizers with a high nitrogen content. At the stage of forming buds for roses, potassium-phosphorus fertilizing is needed, which can be continued at the beginning of flowering and until its middle, then again returning to balanced fertilizers.

It is better to choose fertilizers in liquid form and commercial preparations with well-known properties for indoor roses, especially when it comes to organic fertilizers.

There are few common dressings for indoor roses. Foliar dressing is a guarantee of both better budding and lush greenery of the bushes. They allow roses to look so luxurious on the shelves. Foliar dressing is carried out only 3 or 4 times, with the same interval from 10 to 12 days, throughout the spring, starting from the moment when young branches begin to actively grow.

Indoor roses are great lovers of fresh air
Indoor roses are great lovers of fresh air

9. Strict and smooth rest period

Roses are one of the plants that will not bloom without a cool dormant phase. But putting them on "wintering", it is worth remembering that despite the sharp differences in conditions between the dormant period and the stage of active vegetation and flowering, transferring roses to "rest" should be as smooth as possible.

In traditionally blooming indoor roses, the dormant period occurs in winter and starts in November, ending in late February-March. But indoor roses are often kicked out for winter flowering, under optimal conditions they can bloom tirelessly and the dormant period shifts to other periods. If the plants continue to bloom, they are provided with consistently bright lighting, and they are transferred to new conditions after flowering is complete.

A gradual decrease in temperature and a reduction in watering, in addition to an abrupt stop of fertilizing, is all that roses need to move to a new stage. It is better to reduce watering from the moment the last flowers begin to wither, gradually reducing the amount of water and increasing the frequency of procedures, drying the substrate more strongly.

Bringing roses out into the cold is not a good idea. Roses should be in "intermediate" conditions for 1-2 weeks before being sent to the cold, especially if temperatures are planned to be lowered to less than 5 degrees. Easy adaptation at 12-15 degrees will allow plants to prepare much better for wintering.

The return of the rose to warmth and to active watering is carried out after transplanting, without a smooth transition.

10. Summer indoor roses are best spent in the garden

Indoor roses are great lovers of fresh air. Even insufficiently frequent airing instantly affects the growth and flowering of the plant. And if even in the rooms fresh air stimulates roses, then the full effect of revitalization, exuberant and rapid growth and colorful flowering can be appreciated only if the roses are brought out in the summer to fresh air. On the terrace or balcony, they literally transform, changing beyond recognition.

Indoor roses can be planted in the soil for the summer:

  • dropping the pots into the planting holes dug by the size of the container in the foreground of flower beds or a bed (drainage is laid under the container to protect the containers);
  • transferring them into the ground like full-fledged seedlings.

So you can stimulate renewal, more abundant flowering, thickening of the shoots and the growth of a powerful root system. Roses that are planted in the soil grow more actively and faster. This is the best method of "rehabilitation" of diseased bushes and roses in a depressed state.