Summer Vaccinations By Budding - What, Where And How To Vaccinate? Tools, Technology, Photography

Table of contents:

Summer Vaccinations By Budding - What, Where And How To Vaccinate? Tools, Technology, Photography
Summer Vaccinations By Budding - What, Where And How To Vaccinate? Tools, Technology, Photography

Video: Summer Vaccinations By Budding - What, Where And How To Vaccinate? Tools, Technology, Photography

Отличия серверных жестких дисков от десктопных
Video: Summer guidance issued for partially vaccinated Canadians 2023, January

Well, even our rather big site cannot accommodate all my Wishlist! It's not rubber, though. Because you want not just cherry plum, but also early, and late, and yellow, and burgundy, and as you want large-fruited! And cherries with cherries - two varieties, at least. Apple trees - at least five varieties, and pears - at least four varieties. Peach, nectarine, apricot and at least three interspecific hybrids … With the norm of the food area, on average, 20 m 2 per tree, this is almost five hundred square meters. And what about shrubs, fruit vines and a vegetable garden? Ornamental plants? And where to live after that? And this is only the first part of the problem.

Summer vaccinations by budding - what, where and how to vaccinate?
Summer vaccinations by budding - what, where and how to vaccinate?

The second problem, which will appear six years later, is where to put so many fruits? Because the normal fruiting of one adult apple tree is already an economic disaster. And if five? In general, you need to master the vaccinations. In this case, with a few basic trees at hand, the field of activity opens up wide. I will tell you about this simple, in general, operation in detail in my article.


  • Why are vaccinations needed?
  • What, where and when can you vaccinate?
  • Preparation for budding
  • Kidney vaccination technology

Why are vaccinations needed?

There are several reasons to master the basics of vaccination:

  • Diversify your garden with new varieties, adding to the existing ones. In this case, you can use both young trees and old ones, which in this case can be rejuvenated. The trees will continue to bear fruit.
  • Accelerate fruiting - an apple tree seedling will bear fruit no earlier than 5-6 years (only early-growing ones - on the 3rd), while grafting will give fruit for the 3rd year with a guarantee. At the same time, 2-3 vaccinations on one adult apple tree can be done without damage to the tree. If you don't like it, remove the branch and make a new vaccine.
  • Cuttings are cheap and the variety is rich in variety. Moreover, if you liked the apples from a neighbor / relative / acquaintance, and he does not know the varieties, you can always ask for a one-year shoot and plant it in your garden.
  • A sore subject is re-grading. You buy a seedling, groom and cherish it for five years, and as a result you get something completely different from what was planned. Vaccinations reduce the waiting time, and the situation with cuttings is better, in my opinion, than with seedlings.
  • Another sore subject is the quality of the planting material, more precisely, the state of the root system, which, more often than not, is not just far from ideal, but is a rather sad sight. Grafting allows you to take advantage of the root system of an adult tree.
  • You can grow and form a tree / trees that are ideally suited to local conditions: plant a seed or seed in the right place immediately, after two years a grown seedling with a powerful root system and adapted to the climate, graft with the desired variety and add a new variety every year, if any a wish. A tree on untouched roots is several times stronger than any seedling.
  • A simple summer budding (grafting with a bud) practically does not injure the tree at all: if it does not take root, the shoot on which it was made will grow further and is available for further experiments.
  • Grafting of ornamental plants allows you to create bush-bouquets.
The established apricot on the plum
The established apricot on the plum

What, where and when can you vaccinate?

For beginners, the easiest option would be to graft an apple tree onto an apple tree, a pear tree onto a pear, cherries onto cherries (except for felt, steppe and sandy ones, they are more familiar to plums), etc. Moreover, vaccinations on apple and pear trees take root so easily that you must try hard to spoil the result.

And it is advisable to start training with apple trees and pears - the very first successful vaccination contributes to unprecedented enthusiasm. Then the main thing is to stop in time and not "torture" all the trees in the garden.

The tree on which the experiment is planned is called the stock. It is better to choose a tree that is most adapted to the local climate, then it will transfer disease resistance, frost resistance, drought resistance and other useful qualities to the grafted varieties.

There is a reservation for the timing of fruiting: it is desirable that the stock (mother tree) bears fruit later than the bud grafted onto it. Otherwise, during the development of the grafted branch, the tree may fall into a stupor: it's time to prepare for winter, store everything that is needed in the roots, and then the fruits are hanging. That is, we graft earlier varieties on a later fruiting tree, or (which is better) with the same ripening terms.

The place of inoculation on the tree must be determined in advance: it is optimal - on the process of the central conductor, if the tree is not particularly large, it is not bad - on a young process of the skeletal branch, closer to the trunk. The most convenient thickness of the branch is 1.5 cm; it is inconvenient to graft on thick and thin ones.

The term of summer vaccination is from the end of July to the third decade of August in the middle lane, to the south - until the end of August. A convenient time can be determined by the tree itself: if the shoots have stopped growing and an apical bud has formed, it's time. The bark at this time is well separated from the wood.

Everything you need for summer vaccination
Everything you need for summer vaccination
Cut stalk
Cut stalk

Preparation for budding

If you decide to try to vaccinate, it is not at all necessary to run to the store for the necessary materials and tools (although this is a significant portion of dopamine for garden shopaholics). As a rule, everything you need can be found in the house.

A grafting knife for budding is not at all necessary, it is even more convenient to work with a clerical knife - it has a sharp and thin blade, it is good for them to cut off the buds for grafting and make cuts or cuts on young branches. It's very sharp, so be careful!

Insulating tape is also, as a rule, in every home. If suddenly, by the time of vaccination, it has been completely consumed, you can use an ordinary plastic bag, cut into ribbons one and a half centimeters wide.

It's very nice to make a tag - cut out a plastic piece from any package and write on it the name of the variety and the date of inoculation with an indelible marker or a chemical pencil, who suddenly has such an exotic. Pierce a hole with a heated awl and hang it on any string. The next year, if there is more than one vaccination, remembering when and what was vaccinated is impossible. And when the harness is removed and the wounds are healed, sometimes you cannot find where it is grafted.

Just in case, you need to find a garden var or any other garden putty: suddenly something goes wrong, and unprotected cuts or cuts on a tree in August, when tinder fungi bear fruit, is a direct path to infection.

There is a pruner in any garden, it is as indispensable as a bucket.

It is necessary to determine in advance on which tree and on which branch the bud will be grafted, as well as from where, in fact, this bud will be taken. The best place on the tree is southeast.

To get a growing shoot later, you need to choose a growth bud, not a fruitful one. Such buds in apple and pear trees look somewhat elongated and pressed against the shoot. Fruits are more rounded and slightly protruding. The stalk from which the kidney will be taken for inoculation (or preferably two, for a guarantee) can be cut in advance, even a day before (preferably in the morning). And immediately put in a jar of water in a shady place protected from the wind. Remove the leaves, leaving the stalks 1 cm each, and cut off the crown.

All right, you can start. On a cloudy day without rain until 10 am or from 6 to 9 pm. If the tree is in the shade in the evening, it is possible not on a cloudy day.

Kidney vaccination technology

On the selected shoot, a transverse incision of the bark of 2 centimeters is first made. Then, from the middle of the incision down another 2.5 centimeters, so that the letter T is obtained. From the intersection of the lines, the bark must be carefully bent down.

On the handle, choose the kidney that is the most attractive, make a transverse incision above it 0.5 cm from the kidney. Below, under the kidney, at a distance of about 1 cm, also make a transverse incision. And further from the upper to the lower cut with a sliding motion of a knife, cut off the bud with bark and a thin layer of wood.

For the first time, I recommend cutting the flap with the kidney above the newspaper: it is impossible to calculate the effort, and the flap, instead of remaining on the blade, flies away into the distance.

Here we begin to push this cut-off flap into the incision under the bark and push it until the entire flap is in a place cleared of bark. In this case, the kidney will be about 0.7 cm below the upper stick of the letter T.

Flap insert (not fully inserted yet)
Flap insert (not fully inserted yet)

It remains to connect the bark with your fingers and wrap it all with electrical tape, leaving the kidney and the petiole outside. And hang the tag.

We wrap the vaccine with electrical tape
We wrap the vaccine with electrical tape

My winding turns out to be oversized, because I start noticeably below the grafting with the sticky side to the bark so that the tape is fixed, then I turn the tape over and wrap the sticky side out in the grafting zone. Because otherwise, when unwinding, you can inadvertently tear off the stuck and weakly grown bark together with the tape.

After two to three weeks, if the petiole falls off, we can assume that the vaccine has taken root and carefully unwind it.

The next year, when the shoot from the grafted kidney starts to grow, the branch on which it is grafted must be cut off at a height of about 10 cm from the grafting and all the buds above the grafting must be plucked so that they do not grow. And tie a young sprout to the hemp so that it does not break off inadvertently.

That's all, then we are waiting for the harvest …

Popular by topic